Wednesday, October 31, 2007

You say tomato, I say shiraz

In California, it's Syrah, but in the Barossa Valley, it's "shiraz" (said with best Crocodile Dundee impersonation), and it's never "sirah" anywhere. Confused yet? No?
Once upon a time there was a pretty, feminine grape named Mondeuse. She was an odd sort, and didn't have many friends until one day she met another obscure French grape. His name was Dureza. He was big and tough, and the two immediately fell in love and produced an offspring, Syrah. Syrah featured qualities of both it's parents -- big and full bodied, yet elegant and refined. Syrah travelled to other countries, where he received many other names -- Syrac, Serine, Shiraz, Hignin Noir, to name a few. Syrah hitched a free ride to Australia in the form of vine clippings in the early 1800's, and really thrived in a place called Barossa Valley.

Mollydooker Shiraz "The Boxer" ($$) has been receiving a lot of press lately, including a 95 point rating from Robert Parker. It retails for around 20 bucks here in CT, but I find that spending another couple of dollars for Mara Laughing Jack Shiraz ($$) can be a better purchase. If it's cheap-but-great that you're going for, pick up Peter Lehmann's Barossa Valley Shiraz ($).

The Mollydooker Shiraz "The Boxer" ($$) is worthy of all the attention it has been getting, as it is an intense "fruit bomb", capable of running with the big dogs of Aussie shiraz (would they be "big dingoes"???). It was, in my opinion, a little too "hot" with an almost artificial alcohol taste. That's not to say it wasn't good -- it just wasn't a 95 in my book. 89-90? Sure. 95? Nope. Check out Blog Cellar, they liked it.

The Mara Laughing Jack Shiraz ($$) is more of the well balanced Aussie "fruit bomb" I expect. Blackberry and plum dominate the nose as well as the palate. Black pepper rounds everything out. The finish involves notes of menthol, which has been an interesting new sensation in recent vintages of Aussie reds (see the Nine Mile Cab review). This wine is a MUST BUY, although it will probably be a never-find.

Easier to find, cheaper to buy, and still pretty damn good shiraz is Peter Lehmann's Barossa Valley Shiraz ($). Blackberry and raspberry give way to coconut and french vanilla ice cream with a peppery finish. The wine has a beautiful deep, deep red color with a black center. This wine is also a MUST BUY, and seems to be readily available in New Haven county.
For those of you with deeper pockets, check out Peter Lehmann's Eight Songs Shiraz ($$$) for a really great example of what Barossa has to offer.

Thursday, October 25, 2007

Two more weeks.

Every once and a while, I don't get around to posting for about two weeks. I'm not sure why it's always that amount of time; it seems so arbitrary. Truth is, during those two weeks, I'm on a virtual wine-bender, and by the time I get home I can't find the computer, let alone type on it. So let's take a moment to fill you in on some recent samplings...


Porta Sole Pinot Grigio ($) from Italy may just be this season's under ten dollar hit. (The larger format bottle just breaks the ten dollar mark). The wine has a crisp, clean, light-yellow color -- typical of a pinot grigio, but not always one at this price point. It offers a nose of wildflowers and tropical fruits. The palate is fruity and medium bodied, with tastes of apricot and apple that linger at the back of the mouth before giving way to lemongrass and minerality on the finish. This is a good daily drinker.


Grayson Pinot Noir 2006 ($) retails at around $15. Normally, this would scare me away from a pinot noir. Good pinots are supposed to be in the thirty-and-over range, aren't they? This lively wine from the Central Coast of Napa, California is a rule breaker. Raspberry, strawberry, and cooking spices dominate this pinot with nice acidity and a mellow finish. At this price, you can't go wrong.

Montecillo Crianza 2001 ($) from Rioja is a standout from most other 2001 tempranillos. First off, it's cheap. Second, you don't have to go hunting for it, 'cause almost everybody's got it. It offers a complex nose of earth, ripe cherry, and vanilla and is followed by tastes of black cherry, cola, and cranberry before giving way to a smooth oaky finish. This wine was made for sitting on the porch with a loaf of Chabaso Roasted Garlic Ciabatta and talking to the squirrels (no, really, it's a great time). This is an obvious MUST BUY.

Luzon 2005 ($) from Jumilla is another stunner for less than a tenspot. Mouvedre and Syrah give this wine a deep purple color with an almost black center. Blackberry is the standout here, with cassis for good measure. This wine is ripe and rich from some of the highest altitude vineyards in the area. Another MUST BUY.

Just in case you thought there was some sort of ten dollar theme going on here, the Prevail Back Forty 2003 ($$$$) from Ferrari Carano's own mountain vineyards is a life changer. Deep, deep aromas of ripe berries, white chocolate, and earth are rounded out by a light smell of the Simon & Garfunkel spices (think about it). The wine is so full-bodied, it needs to shop at a special store. The fruit on the palate actually tastes like you just bit into a strawberry, then a red cherry, then a blueberry, then... well, you get the idea. The finish is so smooth it needs a Shaft-esque soundtrack.


Gordon ($) from Oskar Blues Brewing Co. might just be the hoppiest beer I've ever had in a can. The beer was a nice red, with an aroma of pine and cake (we'll call it, Christmasy). The flavor was of citrus and sweet malt, with a hint of the pine still there, which was neat because it made me feel like I was actually sitting at the Colorado brewery. The bitter finish was typical of the IPA style. I'd buy it again if I could find it. I found mine at Wine Thief.


Speaking of beer, the elmcitywino crew attended a 50 Beers From 50 States tasting at New England Brewing Company, which if you didn't know is in New Haven. If you didn't know that, then you probably didn't know they offer up three of the best canned beers I've ever had (Elm City Lager, Atlantic Amber, and Sea Hag IPA -- listed in my order of preference), not to mention some amazing age-worthy specialties from time to time.
Anywho, the tasting was a blast, but I misplaced my notes on everything I tried. I'll keep looking. I do remember, however, that you should avoid Alaskan beer at all costs, don't go near the Anheuser-Busch blueberry beer, and "Batch 1000" barleywine is a definite LAY DOWN beer. Keep checking their site, because eventually the event will have a write-up.


Also, find a bottle of Peter Lehmann Shiraz ($-$$). It will teach you everything you need to know about the Barossa Valley, for a bit less money than great Barossa Shiraz usually goes for.

Wednesday, October 10, 2007

Espana!

Ah, what wonderful tasting opportunities we've had lately, thanks in part to you, the reader. More and more restaurants in the Elm have been telling me they have heard their customers mention Elm City Wino. Thanks.

So I had the chance to sample a few Spaniards the other night. Allow me to share some of the highlights...

Nora De Neve 2005 ($$-$$$) was an awesome white from the Rias Biaxas region in northwest Spain. The area is known for it's autonomy, and this wine showcases this independent spirit. The use of oak with Albarino is usually shunned, as winemakers fear it will overpower the fruit. With the Nora de Neve, however, it works. The wine is light gold in color, with a nose of exotic citrus, peach, and a "toastiness" that probably comes from the French Allier oak (aged 7 mos.). With medium body and a taste of grapefruit and something I could only describe as "tree-bark", which gave it just enough bitterness to round out the wine. At a tasting with plenty of spit-buckets, this is one I didn't spit out. This wine is a MUST BUY.

Remelluri Rioja 2001 ($$-$$$) comes from the highest elevation in Rioja at bodega Granja Nuestra Senora de Remelluri. It is marked "Reserva" in Spain, but for some reason it does not in the states. The wine has a nose of tobacco and earth, with obvious notes of the oak (90% French, 10% American). The wine is full bodied and just a pleasure to drink. I also consider this wine a MUST BUY, especially for those of you with proper cellars, as the wine shows signs of "ageability" (still can't figure out the proper spelling for that word). The wine is predominantly Tempranillo, with Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo added for balance.

Muga Seleccion Especial Reserva 2003 ($$$-$$$$) was my favorite of the bunch. It comes from the traditional blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, and 10% Mazuelo and Graciano. It has a bouquet of fresh, dark red fruit and cooking spices and wonderfully merged flavors of fruits and mineral. The fruit is complemented by French and American oak. If it can be found, it must be had.

Prado Enea Gran Reserva 1998 ($$$), another Rioja from Bodegas Muga came a close second in my list of favorites. The wine is a beautiful ruby red. The nose is quite interesting, with several different aromas all vying for recognition. Leather, gardensoil, berries, vanilla, and coconut are all present, and each pop up independently of each other. Leather, vanilla, and cinnamon are on the tongue with a silky smooth mouthfeel. The wine finishes with a small "injection" of acidity (hello, cellar-time). As I re-read my notes, I begin to wonder if this wine may have been my favorite instead.

Alonso Del Yerro 2004 ($$-$$$) is a Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero that is quickly achieving cult status. Stop reading now. Get out and buy this wine. It might be gone by the time you finish reading this post. Fellow wine-blogger WineCentric has a pretty good post on the Alonso del Yerro.

Cenit 2004 ($$$) has been a favorite of mine for a while. It is a Tempranillo from 80 to 100 year old vines from the Tierra de Zamorra region northwest of Madrid. It has an aroma of blackberries, blueberries, cooking spices, and something that can only be described as "No. 2 pencil" (woody, graphite). It is rich in body texture and taste, with a good acidity that shows cellar potential. This is a MUST BUY and will definitely be one of my top favorites of the year.
For those of us with tighter budgets, Vinas del Cenit also offers Venta Mazzaron ($-$$). The color of oxblood Doc Martens, it has a nose of blueberry, blackberry, mocha, and espresso. The Mazzaron tastes of dark fruits, that are "interrupted" by white pepper. It has a looooong finish that will give you time to think about how smart you are for finding this bottle for less than $20. An obvious MUST BUY.

Juan Gil has been mentioned before. That was the '04 vintage. Now we're on Juan Gil 2005 ($-$$). Wildflowers and big, red berries give way to sweet fruits balanced by oak and ginger.


All of these wines can be found at Barcelona (155 Temple St) or around the corner at Wine Thief.

Ole!

Friday, October 5, 2007

Coltibuono

Yesterday, I mentioned the Coltibuono Cancelli ($). Today, I had the opportunity to taste quite a few more wines from their portfolio.
Rather than get in depth about them all, I will just say that if you see the name, "Coltibuono", buy it. If you see the name "Coltibuono" followed by the word, "Estate", buy two.

Some highlights of the tasting were...
Coltibuono Chianti Classico Estate 2005 ($$) was dry as hell, and awfully green. Let it breathe, and it mellows out to a wine dominated by fruit with a peppery finish. A few months from now, it will probably have mellowed out "in bottle". The Estate has been fairly anticipated by Italian wine geeks, so you're going to have to get one now, even if you plan on opening it in a few months.
Coltibuono Grappa di Sangioveto ($$-$$$) was my first real foray into grappa. Grappa is a pomace based brandy, found in Italy. Grappa, or "Grape Stalk", was originally conceived to eliminate waste from winemaking. Pomace, grape stems, seeds, and skins are distilled to make this brandy.
The Coltibuono Grappa is distilled by Nannoni, which is pretty much the top distiller in Tuscany. It has a nose of pear, and will leave hair on your chest hair.

If you're having a hard time locating Coltibuono, Monsanto Chianti Classico 2003 ($$) rated 91 points from Wine Spectator.

Thursday, October 4, 2007

Living in the Lap of Lush-ery

It was a busy week for this wino. I "forced" myself to sample quite a few wines, all for your benefit. YOUR benefit.

9 Mile Road Cabernet 2005 ($-$$) from Australia was a very interesting and very surprising Cabernet from the unofficial home of Shiraz. This wine is grown in South Australia in a small region known as the Langhorne Creek Valley. An old path that runs through the valley gives the wine its name. The area has an outstanding reputation for big, impressive wines, that are usually within budget. This wine, in particular, has the added bonus of being made by Greg Follett, a winemaker from a family with 3 generations of experience.
The 2005 vintage was affected by drought, with lower-yielding vines and ripe fruit. The wine is a deep ruby color with a nose of menthol and eucalyptus, balanced by licorice and black cherries. The menthol and eucalyptus invade the initial taste as well. These are not characteristics that one would normally find in a $16 Cabernet, which makes the wine all the more exotic. The taste rounds out with blackberries and hints of mocha.
The 9 Mile is spot-on, and a must buy, especially for those of you who haven't gotten past the usual low-end Aussies. It's being poured by the glass for less than 10 bucks at 116 Crown.

On a side note: If you haven't "gotten past the usual low-end Aussies", I can't really talk sh** as much anymore. Wine Spectator, which always tastes blind, has actually given a few of 'em decent ratings....
..... Yellow Tail Shiraz Reserve 2005 ($) 90 points
..... Yellow Tail Shiraz Reserve 2006 ($) 89 points
..... Lindemans Shiraz Padthaway Reserve 2005 ($) 88 points
..... Yellow Tail Merlot Reserve 2005 ($) 87 points
..... Lindemans Shiraz Bin 50 2006 ($) 87 points
..... Yellow Tail Shiraz 2006 ($) 87 points
..... Yellow Tail Merlot 2005 ($) 86 points
..... Penfolds Thomas Hyland Shiraz 2004 ($-$$) 86 points
..... Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2005 ($) 85 points
..... Yellow Tail Shiraz Grenache 2005 ($) 85 points
..... Yellow Tail Shiraz Cabernet 2006 ($) 84 points
Now, ladies and gentlemen, this does not mean you should run out and get these bottles. It just means that it was okay when you used to. Now it's time to get a little more "diversified". I still feel the Penfolds offerings are acceptable Art Opening wines.


Mount Eden Chardonnay Wolff Vineyard 2005 ($$) from the Edna Valley region received 88 points from Wine Spectator, which is disgusting considering the previous list. I was much more impressed with this wine than I have ever been with a white, and more so that I ever will be with that Aussie list. Spicy vanilla on the nose, this wine started out like many other cold climate Chardonnays. Once on the palate, however, the wine started out with a taste of sweet pear and sour apple, and then stopped. No, really, the flavor stopped. Then it "started up again" with toasted wood flavors. It was wild how the two different stages of taste seemed to have a pause between them. I recommend this wine as a must buy to any hardcore Chardonnay fan, California of Burgundy. I also recommend this wine to newbies who need a fun experiment in tasting. Another benefit to this wine is that it holds up well to "day two", which is rare in a California Chard.


Ran into a friend at Yo MTV Shell (New Haveners know the spot), who I haven't seen in a while; gave her a couple bottles of wine...
The Bodegas Carrau Tannat Reserva ($-$$) has been mentioned before.
Conti Zecca Cantalupi Primitivo ($) is a rich, deep, ruby red table wine. A spicy nose makes way for a zesty palate of raspberry and rhubarb. It will benefit greatly from decanting. If you haven't run down to IKEA yet for their $9 decanter, just leave it open for a while. You really, really need to invest in a nice decanter. Target has one by Riedel, which is mid-range, for less than $30. Leave it on the table as a centerpiece when not in use.


Coltibuono Cancelli 2004 ($) is a blend of Sangiovese and Syrah (70/30). More Syrah in this vintage than previous years means bolder, snappier fruit from an already rich, textured wine. It's aged in stainless steel (no wood aging) to give it a youthful feel. Drink it now. Drink it often.
The vineyard is organic, and the winery property has a cooking school onsite.


I was treated to a bottle of Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio 2005 ($$-$$$) today. I was really surprised, as I usually don't dig the gris. It's aged in stainless steel for six months after sitting on its "must" (juice and guts) and then bottle aged for two months before being released to the public. The nose was of white roses, white pepper, and anise. Good acitidity gave way to peach tastes -- I just might have been won over to Pinot Grigio. Once I found out the Pinot Grigio grape is a mutant (mutation of pinot noir), I was sold. It's a must buy for lovers of the Gris.
Another cool factoid is that Marco Felluga (another maker of great Pinot Grigio) is the brother of Livio, and apparently they hate each other. Buy them both when you're drinking to get pissed.


Dominio de Eguren Protocolo Red ($), mentioned before is still good, and I'm drinking it right now. No really. Right now.
(That would have been more effective if it wasn't so easy to type with one hand)


There are more, but I'm getting a little tipsy and my spell-check is getting really annoying, so you'll hear about them another time.

Monday, October 1, 2007

More stuff I can't afford -- Big, French, and White edition

Over the weekend, I had the distinct opportunity to pour some amazing, no wait, AMAZING white Burgundies to several hundred of Connecticut's wine industry "players" (and player-haters) at the Mohegan Sun casino. Before CT's who's who of wine got into the tasting, I just may have had a few sips myself. Since most of us will never acquire a bottle of this stuff, let me allow y'all to live vicariously...



Louis Latour has been in the wine business for over 200 years. They are members of the elite club of Henokiens, a club of about 30 other companies who, as leaders in their respective fields, have been run by the same family for at least 200 years and still retain the name of their founder. One must admit, that this is pretty cool; most companies would've sold out to a huge conglomerate by now. Father and son, father and son, besides the family business, a true passion for the art of winemaking is passed down.
This passion is evident in Corton Charlemagne.
Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne 2004 ($$$$) offers a nose of green apple, cooking spices, and exotic tropical fruits followed by a full bodied flavor and a powerful, dramatic finish. The 2004 vintage will not be one of the extremely sought-after wines at future auctions. Do not, however, believe for one second that this limits this wine. The taste and mouthfeel of this wine are like a song that you hear, that sticks with you and haunts you until you finally find it in the import bin at a specialty record store. It was something I will never forget.
Hopefully, that description intrigued you. If it did, and you have a proper cellar (sorry New Haven apartment dwellers -- myself included), than this wine is for you. Please, please, please do NOT stop there -- pick up a bottle of Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne 2005 ($$$$$) as well. It shows signs of age-ability (there must be a correct spelling for that word) for at least the next 10 to 15 years (Latour says upwards of 20 years for this one). This wine is a masterpiece that will fetch hundreds, if not thousands in future auctions. Roasted nuts and smokehouse aromas are matched by buttercream and vanilla on the nose complemented by mango and banana, quite a jump from the '04 vintage. The taste was a bit "green" for me, but I can only imagine what this wine will be like after decent aging in a proper (read: out of my financial reach) cellar. This wine currently retails for around $150, well out of my reach, but if you can afford it, this makes a wonderful addition to any cellar, or the ultimate gift to any wine collector. Have a boss or client who knows more about wine than the rest of us? This is your "in".

For the rest of us, I offer up two Ardeche Chardonnays well within our budgets.
Louis Latour Chardonnay d'Ardeche ($) and Louis Latour Chardonnay Grand Ardeche ($) are two fruit forward Chardonnays that should be purchased together. Both bottles can be had for around $20. The Ardeche is aged in stainless steel, while the Grand Ardeche is aged in French Oak. I recommend purchasing both because even a novice can pick out the differences in the two aging techniques. This makes a fun experiment for yourself, or a great evening amongst friends (read: fellow winos).