Sunday, August 19, 2007

Castello di Bossi 2001 Chianti Classico

Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico 2001 ($$)...
Predominantly Sangiovese with a tiny bit of Merlot and Canaiolo thrown in, the wine starts out in steel vats, then ends up in French oak for 6-8 months, depending on harvest. The wine itself varies a bit within the vintage, so stay away from restaurant pricing for this one. Ruby red, with smells of aged oak, old cherries, and young violet, this wine has a great balance between tannins and alcohol, with a smooth aftertaste. This is a great, great wine, but due to the variation within vintage can be hit or miss -- most likely "hit", but don't come looking for me if you get one of the baddies.

It's okay to drink the same wine twice.

No, really.

The lack of posting has come from a desire to resample some of the better wines we've had this year.
This week was a veritable festival of Had Before wines.
We begin with the Tannat Amat ($$), which we've mentioned before, and have had at 116 Crown. Find it. Buy it. 'Tis good, yes?
We also had the Bastianich Vespa Rosso ($$), which, yes, was also mentioned before. We had it at Cafe Goodfellas the first time, but special ordered it from Chatham Wine and Spirit. You'll probably have to special order it, as no one else watches that crazy Italian cooking show with Lidia Bastianich (the winemaker's mother). Tell your trusted Wine shop it's distributed by Worldwide, which is now owned by Brescome & Barton, but still has it's own book. If your wine shop doesn't know what this means, switch wine shops.
Other wines previously sampled were, Bodegas Can Blau ($$)and Ferrari Carrano Fume Blanc ($$) which is on the wine list at Portofino on State St.

There was also quite a bit of beer. Good, American Beer. Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA ($) and Orlio Organic IPA ($) are both great examples of a "good, American beer" -- slightly hoppy, moderate alcohol content, and quite drinkable from the bottle. Besides these two, the only beer I'd want with me on a deserted island would be Rogue's Dead Guy Ale ($) which pretty much falls into the same category, with a little plus-sign in the hoppy category.

Sunday, August 12, 2007

Concha Vecino, te quiero



Alright, I'm sure my Spanish is terrible, and I just told her she smells of goat bladder, or something, but this is a woman to revere.
Concha Vecino is a winemaker for Bodegas Nekeas, and the woman behind Vega Sindoa Merlot. She is considered to be THE female winemaker in Spain, and a force to be reckoned with in all of southwestern Europe.
The vineyards of Bodegas Nekeas, in the Navarra region of Spain, sit in the foothills of the Pyrennes -- King of the Mountains, Viking Helmets, crazy Basque cycling fans. The region receives cooling winds from the Atlantic, providing a stable growing season for many types of grape.
The Vega Sindoa Merlot 2002 ($) is not the most complex of wines, but offers a wonderful glimpse into the world of real Merlot. Paul Giamatti's Sideways character would be hard-pressed to deny the pleasure this wine brings. It has a nose of wild cherries and a dark ruby color reminiscent of your old Doc Martins. The mouthfeel is dense and fleshy, with a boldly fruit-forward taste. The finish is smooth with a slight "tang" that lingers briefly, inviting another sip. This is one of the better Merlots you'll find at this price point.
This is a MUST BUY and will even age well for a couple years (buy it by the case?).
This is another Jorge Ordonez selection, and remember, kids, that means good drinkin'.

Grape Island Glass, Cold River, Cheeseboards

When you drink and/or dump quite a bit of wine, you end up with quite a bit of empties. As most New Haveners know, large glass bottles left in a recycling bin become large destructive projectiles for area teens. So what does one do with all those empties?
Grape Island Glass, currently from Orange, takes many of my old bottles and uses them for various glass-fusion experiments, my favorite of which are their cheeseboards (or mushroom pate boards for the vegans).
They recently took my old Cold River Vodka bottles...





No self-respecting wino is truly fulfilled until they own one of these.

116 Crown -- the last bar you'll ever need.


Dog vs. Bird -- Max Toth; a reproduction is on the ceiling in 116 Crown's "tea room"




Last Saturday brought the soft-opening of 116 Crown, the brainchild of John and Danielle Giannetti -- formerly of BAR (254 Crown St.). Never ones to be on time, the ecWino crew headed down there Friday night to check out the scene. We took with us 2 friends, one wine novice and one wine newbie, to get an overall picture of the place.

As you enter, you are immediately taken aback by how beautiful the place is. Contrasting textures and bold effects dominate the design, and every 20 feet you enter a different theme. You are greeted at the door by well dressed, dare I say, hipsters, who offer you a tour of the entire establishment. There are various little areas -- the "pods", the "eye", and the "tea room" that need to be seen to be fully understood. A DJ plays music that falls somewhere between dance and lounge, adding to the vibe that this is not just a pretty restaurant.
We chose the "tea room", and enclosed space with block-style couch seating and small tea tables. The room is equipped with its own iPod docking station, so be sure to bring your own tunes. The ceiling is an amazing painting by Max Toth, who we were joined by later in the evening. There are two sets of tables in the tea room which allows your party to be joined by strangers, making for a fun, communal evening.

The wine list is, in my opinion, the best in the state. The designer of the list is Eoin Connors, a contestant in the 2002 Young Sommeliers Competition, and one of the brightest young wine minds in the Northeast. The wines run the gamut of grape varieties and appellations, and John has dedicated himself to keeping everything affordable. One of our selections, Tannat Amat, ran us $40, which is only slightly higher than retail.

We started with Clos de Roillette 2004 ($$), a stately Fleurie that is one of the BEST Beaujolais wines available at this price point. This is widely considered the better of top-growths in the region, it featured dried chrery and raspberry flavors. It's a bit drier than most Beaujolais, so it should appease most wine drinkers. It ran us around $30, again only slightly higher than retail. John said his intent was to charge, "by the ounce", an appropriate price for what you drink. There is no, "this looks like it should be X dollars" style mark-up -- what you pay for is what you get.

Expect to pay around $8-10 for wines by-the-glass. Even the b-t-g selection is wonderful, with one of the ecWino guests ordering a German Pinot Noir (yes, German) and contrary to Robert Parker's beliefs, it was quite tasty. There isn't a wine on their list that I wouldn't recommend.

116 Crown will be known more for their mixed drinks, however, with John and Danielle inventing new drinks or re-inventing old ones. Mo had a grapefruit and basil mojito that she just couldn't rave about enough.

This Tuesday marks their "grand opening" so be sure and get down there soon, before the boozerati crowd takes over.

Monday, August 6, 2007

Because Man Cannot Live On Rice Alone

"Because Man cannot live on rice alone" is the creed by which the crew at Miya's (68 Howe St. New Haven) live, work, and play. Bun Lai, the proprietor, has been foraging through local woods with his most trusted henchmen (read: employees) in search of the most unique of local ingredients. These ingredients are not for his sushi, but rather for infused sake.
Bun has been fermenting his own sake for some time now, and tossing in things that at first glance seem like an experiment in beautiful anarchy. Truth is, many of these recipes are centuries old, such as the Gayanashagowa -- billed as, "the Iroquois peace drink that brought a thousand years of harmony".

Mo and I went down to Miya's last week to try these sakes out. Bun offers a Sake Sampler for $38.75. It comes with a brandy snifter of Ultraviolet Kisses, and small tasting glasses of 7 other infused sakes. The sampler is billed in the menu as being, "for 2 very close friends". It was actually a little much for Mo and I (amateurs), and quite a bit was left in each glass. Buy this for a crew of four (or more).

I'll do my best to describe each sake, as well as offer Mo's opinion (if she had one)...


EMERALD WITCHES' LIPS
This was infused with hand-picked green pine cones. The nose was very "piney" (not a word?), and reminded us of being in the Maine woods after a spring rainstorm. The taste, while still "piney", was actually quite citrusy (that's not a word either, eh?).
Mo: "Refreshing!"

GAYANASHAGOWA
The "Iroquois peace drink" is infused with Wisconsin ginseng and jasmine flowers. The jasmine is the first thing you smell, and even dominates the taste. There were also hints of edible flowers, much like the ones you can score at the farmers' market.
Mo: "This reminds me of flower arranging."

ULTRAVIOLET KISSES
"Ultrasalty kisses" was how our server described this one to us. It's served in a brandy snifter with seastones and ume - don't eat the rocks! This sake is aged with ume, and tastes a lot like seawater. This one is meant for slow, slow sipping. The first couple of sips are actually quite disgusting, but after the initial shock wears off, you can see why this one is Bun's favorite -- it comes out smoky, salty, and somewhat sweet. This one is for only the most refined of palates.
Mo: "Umeboshi!!!"

THE MAGIC GARDEN
This one is infused with wild dandelion petals. It took 2 people 3 full days to make 24 750ml bottles. It smells of orange and cloves -- think mulled wine at Christmas. It tastes mostly of butterscotch, with some of the orange and clove hints. I was reminded of a butterscotch candy.
Mo: "Smoky!"

CHEROKEE SUMAC LOVE POTION
Infused with hand-picked wild sumac berries, this one smelled and tasted quite citrusy (ok, still not a word). I immediately decided that if this was what sumac tastes like, the next time I find poison sumac, I'm rubbing it all over my tongue. (Our server explained the difference between sumac and poison sumac).
This one was my favorite, and Mo's second fave.

YELLOW FEVER
Guava sake. I could leave the description at that.
It smelled of a pineapple blended cocktail. It didn't taste as fruity as I would have thought from the smell. The alcohol actually overpowered the fruit just a little, and I hope this is corrected in future batches. I'm not saying not to get it -- just keep that in mind.
This one was Mo's favorite, and she downed the rest like a first year sorority girl at a UCONN frat party before I could even get another sip in.

CHINESE FIRECRACKER
Hot! Hot!! Hot!!!
No, really, it's friggin' HOT.
This one is infused with aged chili peppers, and was aged further in the bottle since January of 2006. This stuff even smells hot -- super hot. This one is not for the feint-of-heart. Mind you, while this concoction is super-spicy, it's quite well balanced. Unlike something like Dave's Insanity Sauce, it is not hot for the sake of "hot", and has quite a bit of flavor -- think hot, smoky salsa (but alcoholic).
If you like spicy foods, you have not truly lived until you have tried this sake!
This is my MUST BUY of the lot.
Mo: "It gets hotter at the end! I thought I was done!!"

DRAGON LADY
Apparently the last Empress of China's secret recipe, this one is infused with ginger, lemongrass, and clover honey. Any sweetness of the honey is lost in the taste, which is dominated by the ginger. You can still find traces of lemongrass in there. Vegans everywhere will hate me, but I'd like to see the next batch infused with more honey. The ginger, however, cancels out any alcohol taste, so beware of this one.
Mo: "eh."


If you haven't been to Miya's before, expect to spend another $20-40 per person, depending on how much you eat. There are amazing vegan options, and most nights Bun just brings you little dishes of things he's trying out. I'm unsure of the price (I think it was $35-50-ish), but on Wednesday they do a 10 course dinner for the meat/fish eaters. Much of it can be made veggie if desired.
If you're the type of person who gets creeped out when the server knows your name by the end of the meal, stay away -- there's a Denny's somewhere with your name on it.