Only two months in the cellar, and the Bruno Colin 2004 Premier Cru Santenay "Les Gravieres" ($$$-$$$$) (my top wine of the year) is coming along nicely. The black cherry nose is still there, but the barnyard characteristics one would expect from an aged Burgundy are presenting themselves. The wine is already "smoother", with dark fruits on the lengthy finish. Still my favorite wine of the past 365 days...
Speaking of Bruno Colin, I also got to try his Bruno Colin 2004 Premier Cru Chassagne Montrachet "La Maltroie" ($$$$) today. For the newbs, white Burgundies from the Chassagne-Montrachet appellation are Chardonnay (in its true, non-Californian form). To the old-schoolers, yes, I opened this wine way too soon (like seven years too soon). Young as it was, it had a nose of green apples and fresh almonds, with a full fruit palate, all the while displaying a mineral character, from nose to finish. There is a hint of oak throughout, but it shows most in the aftertaste. Yummy.
Speaking of my top wines of the year, I also had more of the 2006 Clos de los Siete ($$). This time I didn't get the chance to use a decanter (more on that later) and found the wine to be too green. This doesn't bring it off my list, but it does mean you should drink it slowly, or open it at least a half hour before you drink it, or use a decanter. (Better yet, throw it in your basement, and try it again in six months) I mention this wine all the time -- I'm not turning back on it now.
Speaking of "green", I tried more of the 2005 Bodegas Alto Moncayo "Alto Moncayo" Campo de Borja ($$$) which Stephen Tanzer gave a 92+ rating because he felt it was too young, but would develop nicely over time. (Read related post here) It's already drinking better, although it was being consumed by two lovers of "New World" reds. Old World types should leave this in the cellar longer.
--Whoa! Matt, we don't have CELLARS, did you forget who you were writing this blog for?!?!?!?!?!
Sorry about that. Don't buy it yet. I know it might not be around for long, but unless you want your red wine to peel your face off from the inside (to quote Rinsey), stay very far away. That said, I'm in love with this wine.
Speaking of "in love", Arianna Occhipinti's 2006 Occhipinti Sicilia Rosso IGT Frappato ($$-$$$) is headed for the States. I'm going to the shipyard to meet it.
Speaking of "decanters", don't ever decant a wine while standing up above a white couch with Drew and Alex of 116 Crown, or you may end up with a broken decanter and a pink couch.
Speaking of pink, find a bottle of 2006 Etude Pinot Noir Rose ($$). Strawberry on the nose, crisp on the palate, short-lived but effective. Just get one.
Thursday, January 31, 2008
Friday, January 25, 2008
text messages
Text messages used to make me feel like a 9th grade girl, but I'm starting to get used to them. Here's a little text exchange I thought I'd share...
"Karaoke. Coming Out?"
"Ack! Just opened a btl of Freeman Pinot Noir. I can't afford to leave the house!"
...the Freeman 2005 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($$$) is a classic example of BIG California pinot. As soon as you open the bottle, there is a ton of "cherry coke" on the nose, but given a brief amount of time in the glass, the "cola" loses out to big oak notes and spice. The flavor in the mouth brings cherries and raspberries with a nice, mellow texture with lower acidity than one would expect from a BIG-CALI pinot. This is interesting to note, as other '05 Russian River pinots in this price point have acidity and tannins that make you want to lay the bottle down for a year before opening it. This one is drinking right now. The finish is a little short for my taste, but that's really the only negative thing I can come up with for this wine. Besides, if the finish is too short, just quickly pour yourself another glass and start all over again!
EDIT: It's now about an hour after opening, and this wine has opened up to be a very Burgundian animal. There is almost no "cherry coke" left on the nose, instead earthy notes run the house. The mouthfeel and palate are similar, but the complete about-face in nose, this quick, without a decanter, is wild, pushing this wine to MUST BUY status.
Don't quite get the "Burgundian animal" comment? Pacific West Coast Pinot is a Staffordshire Terrier -- in the wrong hands, it's just a pit bull. Burgundian Pinot is a show-winning Beagle, a work-hound, yet refined and elegant. Moral? They're both dogs.
Speaking of laying down pinot noir, I had the opportunity to sample some higher dollar California pinots from 1998 and 1999. This is without question way too long to hold on to most, if not all, BIG-CALI pinots, but it was fun to try...
note: the following wines tasted were much older vintages than are currently available and in no way reflect the quality of current vintages.
The Saintsbury Brown Ranch Pinot Noir 1998 (current vintage $$$) smelled of "cow plop" and had a taste that amounted to prunes wrapped in notebook paper. Not even joking. Alright maybe a tiny bit.
Flowers Pinot Noir 1998 (current vintage $$$) fared only slightly better, with less "plop" on the nose, and a little less notebook paper on the palate. It lacked any body however, and was also waaaaaaay past its prime.
Gary Farrell Pinot Noir 1998 (current vintage $$$) was my favorite out of the bunch, which while not saying much, was definitely a not-as-bad sign. The nose was closer to the barnyard and wet earth smells I enjoy so much than to the straight up "cow plop" some of the others had. For anyone confused about the difference between "barnyard" and "cow plop", think of "barnyard" as the smell of a stable, minus the ammonia-laden urine; think of "cow plop" as what you stepped in leaving the stable. -- feel better now? The palate of the Farrell still had some of the fruit, but not much, which is understandable at this age (we ain't talkin' Burgundies here), and developed some interesting mineral characters. I'll admit, if I found this bottle again on the open market, I'd try talking the shopkeeper down and buy it, just to try this exercise again. Not by any means a good drinker for ANYONE, but a fun, um, science project.
The Miner Family Pinot Noir 1999 (current vintage $$$$) was alot like the Farrell. Also a SCIENCE PROJECT wine (I love that we've created a new category based on self-torture), I'd probably buy one of these, too, if I happened upon it. A similar barnyard and wet earth nose preceded a palate with slightly more fruit, albeit nothing like a current or recent vintage CA pinot, and an actual finish. The finish on this one made me think of going to my Great-Grandmother's house when I was a kid -- dusty, antiquated house with a beautiful garden out back (that I wasn't allowed to play in). Oddly enough, if you found this wine, from this vintage, properly cellared, you'd know exactly what I meant by that.
It was a fun exercise, one that will ultimately lead to a better understanding of peak times for opening a wine -- after all, the beauty of this (ack!) hobby is that there is always something to learn.
Cheers!
"Karaoke. Coming Out?"
"Ack! Just opened a btl of Freeman Pinot Noir. I can't afford to leave the house!"
...the Freeman 2005 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($$$) is a classic example of BIG California pinot. As soon as you open the bottle, there is a ton of "cherry coke" on the nose, but given a brief amount of time in the glass, the "cola" loses out to big oak notes and spice. The flavor in the mouth brings cherries and raspberries with a nice, mellow texture with lower acidity than one would expect from a BIG-CALI pinot. This is interesting to note, as other '05 Russian River pinots in this price point have acidity and tannins that make you want to lay the bottle down for a year before opening it. This one is drinking right now. The finish is a little short for my taste, but that's really the only negative thing I can come up with for this wine. Besides, if the finish is too short, just quickly pour yourself another glass and start all over again!
EDIT: It's now about an hour after opening, and this wine has opened up to be a very Burgundian animal. There is almost no "cherry coke" left on the nose, instead earthy notes run the house. The mouthfeel and palate are similar, but the complete about-face in nose, this quick, without a decanter, is wild, pushing this wine to MUST BUY status.
Don't quite get the "Burgundian animal" comment? Pacific West Coast Pinot is a Staffordshire Terrier -- in the wrong hands, it's just a pit bull. Burgundian Pinot is a show-winning Beagle, a work-hound, yet refined and elegant. Moral? They're both dogs.
Speaking of laying down pinot noir, I had the opportunity to sample some higher dollar California pinots from 1998 and 1999. This is without question way too long to hold on to most, if not all, BIG-CALI pinots, but it was fun to try...
note: the following wines tasted were much older vintages than are currently available and in no way reflect the quality of current vintages.
The Saintsbury Brown Ranch Pinot Noir 1998 (current vintage $$$) smelled of "cow plop" and had a taste that amounted to prunes wrapped in notebook paper. Not even joking. Alright maybe a tiny bit.
Flowers Pinot Noir 1998 (current vintage $$$) fared only slightly better, with less "plop" on the nose, and a little less notebook paper on the palate. It lacked any body however, and was also waaaaaaay past its prime.
Gary Farrell Pinot Noir 1998 (current vintage $$$) was my favorite out of the bunch, which while not saying much, was definitely a not-as-bad sign. The nose was closer to the barnyard and wet earth smells I enjoy so much than to the straight up "cow plop" some of the others had. For anyone confused about the difference between "barnyard" and "cow plop", think of "barnyard" as the smell of a stable, minus the ammonia-laden urine; think of "cow plop" as what you stepped in leaving the stable. -- feel better now? The palate of the Farrell still had some of the fruit, but not much, which is understandable at this age (we ain't talkin' Burgundies here), and developed some interesting mineral characters. I'll admit, if I found this bottle again on the open market, I'd try talking the shopkeeper down and buy it, just to try this exercise again. Not by any means a good drinker for ANYONE, but a fun, um, science project.
The Miner Family Pinot Noir 1999 (current vintage $$$$) was alot like the Farrell. Also a SCIENCE PROJECT wine (I love that we've created a new category based on self-torture), I'd probably buy one of these, too, if I happened upon it. A similar barnyard and wet earth nose preceded a palate with slightly more fruit, albeit nothing like a current or recent vintage CA pinot, and an actual finish. The finish on this one made me think of going to my Great-Grandmother's house when I was a kid -- dusty, antiquated house with a beautiful garden out back (that I wasn't allowed to play in). Oddly enough, if you found this wine, from this vintage, properly cellared, you'd know exactly what I meant by that.
It was a fun exercise, one that will ultimately lead to a better understanding of peak times for opening a wine -- after all, the beauty of this (ack!) hobby is that there is always something to learn.
Cheers!
hearts
My temporary infatuation with Arianna Occhipinti and her Frappato has not waned...
...ha!
I even found her website.
To keep the stalker-izing to a minimum, I have sworn off biodynamic wines for the duration of the weekend.
Apparently, my future wife has quite a following, which is evident if one goes to Joe Dressner's site and checks the comments section of all the Italian Wine Attack posts. Not me. I swear. Seriously. Okay, the one about the Frappato was me, but the rest ain't. Really.
...ha!
I even found her website.
To keep the stalker-izing to a minimum, I have sworn off biodynamic wines for the duration of the weekend.
Apparently, my future wife has quite a following, which is evident if one goes to Joe Dressner's site and checks the comments section of all the Italian Wine Attack posts. Not me. I swear. Seriously. Okay, the one about the Frappato was me, but the rest ain't. Really.
Saturday, January 19, 2008
NYTimes reviews 116 Crown St.
"Excellent", says the New York Times, but we knew that already. For those who still buy the paper, it's in the Connecticut section.
Congrats to J&D at 116!!!
Congrats to J&D at 116!!!
Dressner's Mafia invades New Haven
Joe Dressner, the influential wine importer and half of Louis/Dressner Selections, brought seven of his portfolio's Italian winemakers to Union League Cafe (1032 Chapel St.) for a tasting of their wines. Click here to find out more about the winemakers.
All of the wines tasted are farmed biodynamically, treating the soil as a living organism, little to no sulphur is used (although sulfites do naturally exist in wine, so these aren't necessarily "sulfite-free"), and the wines are made without the use of high-priced consultants.
"borrowed" from joedressner.com
The stars of the show were Pietro Vergano (second from right), Alessandra Bera (third from left), and Arianna Occhipinti (left).
Pietro Vergano, from Chinati Vergano is a chemist-turned-distiller. He makes Chinato, a mixture of wine, spirits, sweeteners, and spices. Although his Chinato is not what one would expect to find at a "traditional" wine tasting, these were a big hit with everyone who tried them. The room was abuzz with, "Try table eight (his table) first!". The gang from 116 Crown were called in for their opinions, and I wouldn't be surprised if we see Chinati Vergano on their menu soon.
Pietro, who distills spirits from organic grains, offered three variations of Chinato...
The Chinati Vergano Americano ($$$) uses wines from Piedmont mixed with the Absinthe herb, among other spices. We tasted it first, and found it to be a cornucopia of pie spices with a nice sweet finish. Pietro then, excited, threw some ice cubes and orange zest into our glasses and poured more Americano. The difference was amazing, and this is an aperitif that is a MUST TRY.
The Chinati Vergano Luli Chanato Moscato ($$$-$$$$) was, obviously, a moscato d'asti based chinato, sweetened with local sugar and infused with cinnamon, quinine, and corriander. The moscato actually comes from Allesandra and Gianluigi Bera (their moscato was one of the big hits of the show).
The Chinati Vergano Chinato Nebbiolo ($$$-$$$$) features a base of Nebbiolo d'Alba from Barbaresco, which is usually a red wine on the heartier side. This was infused with Rhubarb, Cardamom, and Quinine, as well as a host of other spices, but it gets kind of tough to follow that accent. This Chinato was more of a digestif, and I can picture myself with this at the end of a long day, reading a book, wearing my smoking jacket.
I need to get a smoking jacket.
Alessandra Bera, from Bera Vittorio & Figli, is a rebellious woman. Teaming up with her brother, they make Moscato without "gassing up the wine" (normal practice), instead using spontaneous refermentation by keeping the wine on it's lees for up to a year.
The Bera Moscato d'Asti ($$), while not her only showing, was definitely her best. Most of the attendees felt this was the best white wine at the show. It offered the fruit nose typical of Moscato, but had copious amounts of honey on the palate. The wine was "super-carbonated" for a Moscato, but it was not a hindrance. Instead, it just made me want more. This could've been the most dangerous wine in attendance. This wine, while scarce, is a MUST BUY.
Arianna Occhipinti, from Az. Agr. Arianna Occhipinti, doesn't know it yet, but will be my future wife. (Ha!) Besides being a young, attractive, biodynamic producer from a long lineage of well-known winemakers, she made the best reds I tasted all night.
Her Occhipinti Sicilia Rosso IGT Nero d'Avola Siccagno ($$$$) was a soft and refined Nero d'Avola that still retained some of the heartier elements expected from the grape.
She then offered two vintages of Occhipinti Sicilia Rosso IGT Frappato, 2005 (N/A) and 2006 ($$$$, arrival in spring). I felt there was more fruit on the '06, and it turns out she picked the grapes 15 days later in the growing season than the '05. This longer ripening period translates to more complexity in the wine. The 2006 vintage was definitely my favorite, and offered barnyard and earthy notes on the nose, before giving way to an attack of strawberry on the palate. The finish was smooth and very long, long enough that I sat at the bar at 116 a few hours later without any wine in front of me -- I just couldn't bear to lose that taste. I would call this wine a MUST BUY, but for fear that others will buy the limited amount of this wine before I get any, I won't.
Keep an eye out for the Louis/Dressner logo on the backs of wine bottles, as the enjoyability of these wines is pretty much guaranteed. Dressner keeps his portfolio either Biodynamic or Organic, which is refreshing when most wines marketed as "organic" are just plain terrible.
All of the wines tasted are farmed biodynamically, treating the soil as a living organism, little to no sulphur is used (although sulfites do naturally exist in wine, so these aren't necessarily "sulfite-free"), and the wines are made without the use of high-priced consultants.
"borrowed" from joedressner.com
The stars of the show were Pietro Vergano (second from right), Alessandra Bera (third from left), and Arianna Occhipinti (left).
Pietro Vergano, from Chinati Vergano is a chemist-turned-distiller. He makes Chinato, a mixture of wine, spirits, sweeteners, and spices. Although his Chinato is not what one would expect to find at a "traditional" wine tasting, these were a big hit with everyone who tried them. The room was abuzz with, "Try table eight (his table) first!". The gang from 116 Crown were called in for their opinions, and I wouldn't be surprised if we see Chinati Vergano on their menu soon.
Pietro, who distills spirits from organic grains, offered three variations of Chinato...
The Chinati Vergano Americano ($$$) uses wines from Piedmont mixed with the Absinthe herb, among other spices. We tasted it first, and found it to be a cornucopia of pie spices with a nice sweet finish. Pietro then, excited, threw some ice cubes and orange zest into our glasses and poured more Americano. The difference was amazing, and this is an aperitif that is a MUST TRY.
The Chinati Vergano Luli Chanato Moscato ($$$-$$$$) was, obviously, a moscato d'asti based chinato, sweetened with local sugar and infused with cinnamon, quinine, and corriander. The moscato actually comes from Allesandra and Gianluigi Bera (their moscato was one of the big hits of the show).
The Chinati Vergano Chinato Nebbiolo ($$$-$$$$) features a base of Nebbiolo d'Alba from Barbaresco, which is usually a red wine on the heartier side. This was infused with Rhubarb, Cardamom, and Quinine, as well as a host of other spices, but it gets kind of tough to follow that accent. This Chinato was more of a digestif, and I can picture myself with this at the end of a long day, reading a book, wearing my smoking jacket.
I need to get a smoking jacket.
Alessandra Bera, from Bera Vittorio & Figli, is a rebellious woman. Teaming up with her brother, they make Moscato without "gassing up the wine" (normal practice), instead using spontaneous refermentation by keeping the wine on it's lees for up to a year.
The Bera Moscato d'Asti ($$), while not her only showing, was definitely her best. Most of the attendees felt this was the best white wine at the show. It offered the fruit nose typical of Moscato, but had copious amounts of honey on the palate. The wine was "super-carbonated" for a Moscato, but it was not a hindrance. Instead, it just made me want more. This could've been the most dangerous wine in attendance. This wine, while scarce, is a MUST BUY.
Arianna Occhipinti, from Az. Agr. Arianna Occhipinti, doesn't know it yet, but will be my future wife. (Ha!) Besides being a young, attractive, biodynamic producer from a long lineage of well-known winemakers, she made the best reds I tasted all night.
Her Occhipinti Sicilia Rosso IGT Nero d'Avola Siccagno ($$$$) was a soft and refined Nero d'Avola that still retained some of the heartier elements expected from the grape.
She then offered two vintages of Occhipinti Sicilia Rosso IGT Frappato, 2005 (N/A) and 2006 ($$$$, arrival in spring). I felt there was more fruit on the '06, and it turns out she picked the grapes 15 days later in the growing season than the '05. This longer ripening period translates to more complexity in the wine. The 2006 vintage was definitely my favorite, and offered barnyard and earthy notes on the nose, before giving way to an attack of strawberry on the palate. The finish was smooth and very long, long enough that I sat at the bar at 116 a few hours later without any wine in front of me -- I just couldn't bear to lose that taste. I would call this wine a MUST BUY, but for fear that others will buy the limited amount of this wine before I get any, I won't.
Keep an eye out for the Louis/Dressner logo on the backs of wine bottles, as the enjoyability of these wines is pretty much guaranteed. Dressner keeps his portfolio either Biodynamic or Organic, which is refreshing when most wines marketed as "organic" are just plain terrible.
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
White Flight
...not that kind!
Had the chance to taste a bunch of white wines today, all at very nice price points, that were all pretty decent. Contrary to appearances, I'm not much of a white guy. (Ha!) Alright, I can't jump.
2006 Hob Nob Chardonnay ($)
I've wanted to mention this wine before. It almost made my Top Wines of 2007 list in the $15 and under category until I narrowed the selections down to five. This wine is a "vin de pays d'oc" (read: table wine) from France, that essentially is a blend of chardonnay grapes from different regions-- this keeps it from falling under the rules of appellations. I brought this out to a Critical Mass afterparty, where it was a big hit. Thinking that this meant is was a yellowtail-set wine, I tried bringing it to some friends in the restaurant business. They all loved it (and some now offer it by the glass). It's a surprisingly balanced chardonnay for the price point. It's nose is full of tropical fruits, odd for a French chard. There is a complete about-face in the flavor -- much less fruit, the mouth is full of almonds and a few other exotic nuts. While the finish is brief, normal for the price point, it is not without character, bringing just a hint of the fruit back. This wine is a MUST BUY, even for wine snobs, because it can surprise any palate. Is it a "flavor profile" wine intended for the mass-market? Yes. Is it drinkable? Yes. Will I ultimately buy this and offer it in my home? Yes.
Barone Fini Valdadige Pinot Grigio 2006 ($)
This wine, from the Northeast corner of Italy, is par for the course Pinot Grigio. What sets this wine apart from other P.G.'s is it's price point versus quality. It has nice notes of cold weather fruits (apples, pears) on the nose and a pleasant mouthfeel. For those of you who couldn't find (or couldn't afford) the Marco or Livio Felluga, this wine is for you. At this price, this is a MUST BUY daily drinker for Pinot Grigio types.
2006 Kunde Estate Sauvignon Blanc ($)
Cheap. Organic/Sustainable. Decent, Californian Sauv Blanc. Just buy it, already.
The Crossings Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($-$$)
This vintage is a new arrival to CT. Anyone who has heard rumblings of the current vintage of Sauv Blancs from New Zealand needs to find this wine. All the tropical fruit, melon, and key lime one would expect from a good Sauvignon Blanc, with none of the limited allocation problems (or radical cost). This wine is available, and if your "guy" doesn't have it, it can be ordered.
Andre Lurton Chateau Bonnet White Bordeaux 2006 ($)
First of all, any other white Bordeaux for less than ten bucks will be bad. I've tried a bunch. They suck. This one, however, has tons of character. Crisp and dry, maybe overly dry for a white, this wine is 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon, and 10% Muscadelle. For a few years, this winemaker was looked down upon for taking a centuries-old vineyard and applying modern techniques. The past few years of this wine have been their real coup d'etat -- proving that old school attention to detail paired with modern techniques can yield a wine of character that remains at an approachable price point. This wine was one of my favorites.
2006 Pierre Sparr Pinot Gris Reserve ($-$$)
We've saved the best for last. Alsace wines are often overlooked here in New Haven County. Maybe because the bottle looks so much like a German wine. Maybe it's because a German dialect was spoken for so long in the region. Maybe because the wines are "sweeter" than most whites from France. Who knows. (and why the hostility towards the Germans?!?!?!)
This wine has all the cold weather white fruit notes you would expect from a German, with a semi-sweet Riesling like mouthfeel. The finish, however, is all France, bringing you back to the wood and "raw" grape. For "sweet" wine drinkers and the rest of us, this one is my MUST BUY of the lot (must-est buy?). If only one of these were coming home, this is it.
Had the chance to taste a bunch of white wines today, all at very nice price points, that were all pretty decent. Contrary to appearances, I'm not much of a white guy. (Ha!) Alright, I can't jump.
2006 Hob Nob Chardonnay ($)
I've wanted to mention this wine before. It almost made my Top Wines of 2007 list in the $15 and under category until I narrowed the selections down to five. This wine is a "vin de pays d'oc" (read: table wine) from France, that essentially is a blend of chardonnay grapes from different regions-- this keeps it from falling under the rules of appellations. I brought this out to a Critical Mass afterparty, where it was a big hit. Thinking that this meant is was a yellowtail-set wine, I tried bringing it to some friends in the restaurant business. They all loved it (and some now offer it by the glass). It's a surprisingly balanced chardonnay for the price point. It's nose is full of tropical fruits, odd for a French chard. There is a complete about-face in the flavor -- much less fruit, the mouth is full of almonds and a few other exotic nuts. While the finish is brief, normal for the price point, it is not without character, bringing just a hint of the fruit back. This wine is a MUST BUY, even for wine snobs, because it can surprise any palate. Is it a "flavor profile" wine intended for the mass-market? Yes. Is it drinkable? Yes. Will I ultimately buy this and offer it in my home? Yes.
Barone Fini Valdadige Pinot Grigio 2006 ($)
This wine, from the Northeast corner of Italy, is par for the course Pinot Grigio. What sets this wine apart from other P.G.'s is it's price point versus quality. It has nice notes of cold weather fruits (apples, pears) on the nose and a pleasant mouthfeel. For those of you who couldn't find (or couldn't afford) the Marco or Livio Felluga, this wine is for you. At this price, this is a MUST BUY daily drinker for Pinot Grigio types.
2006 Kunde Estate Sauvignon Blanc ($)
Cheap. Organic/Sustainable. Decent, Californian Sauv Blanc. Just buy it, already.
The Crossings Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($-$$)
This vintage is a new arrival to CT. Anyone who has heard rumblings of the current vintage of Sauv Blancs from New Zealand needs to find this wine. All the tropical fruit, melon, and key lime one would expect from a good Sauvignon Blanc, with none of the limited allocation problems (or radical cost). This wine is available, and if your "guy" doesn't have it, it can be ordered.
Andre Lurton Chateau Bonnet White Bordeaux 2006 ($)
First of all, any other white Bordeaux for less than ten bucks will be bad. I've tried a bunch. They suck. This one, however, has tons of character. Crisp and dry, maybe overly dry for a white, this wine is 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon, and 10% Muscadelle. For a few years, this winemaker was looked down upon for taking a centuries-old vineyard and applying modern techniques. The past few years of this wine have been their real coup d'etat -- proving that old school attention to detail paired with modern techniques can yield a wine of character that remains at an approachable price point. This wine was one of my favorites.
2006 Pierre Sparr Pinot Gris Reserve ($-$$)
We've saved the best for last. Alsace wines are often overlooked here in New Haven County. Maybe because the bottle looks so much like a German wine. Maybe it's because a German dialect was spoken for so long in the region. Maybe because the wines are "sweeter" than most whites from France. Who knows. (and why the hostility towards the Germans?!?!?!)
This wine has all the cold weather white fruit notes you would expect from a German, with a semi-sweet Riesling like mouthfeel. The finish, however, is all France, bringing you back to the wood and "raw" grape. For "sweet" wine drinkers and the rest of us, this one is my MUST BUY of the lot (must-est buy?). If only one of these were coming home, this is it.
Easton, CT digs Spanish wine, Don Mattingly likes Mendoza
I had the opportunity to pour wines at a couple of charity events recently. Pourings generally consist of standing on your feet for hours with no help, being harassed by drunkards and cork dorks, and running out of wine before you actually get to try any. These two were a bit cooler...
Spanish Wine attacks Easton
I was invited by Valley Discount Wine and Liquor (mentioned before) to Easton for a charity silent auction. Four wine tables were to be at the event, representing Argentina, Australia, Italy, and Spain. I was asked to pour Spanish wine and talk the talk with some of Easton's philanthropy set.
We chose six reds and one white, running the gamut of Spanish microclimates, while allowing side by side comparisons of the same grape.
For the white, I poured 2006 Castelo do Papa Godello ($), which made my Top Wines of 2007 list. It was a hit, mainly among those who favor Sauvignon Blanc.
The reds got a bit more complicated, and I served them based on their climates, starting with colder temperatures and moving warmer. Of course, we are talking about Spain, so I really went from hotter to hotterer.
I started with 2003 Matarredonda Juan Rojo ($$), a tempranillo grown in the Toro region of North-Central Spain. Much of the vines used for this wine are between 70 and 140 years old, dating from before the phylloxera epidemic that wiped out much of Europe's vineyards. It's aged for 8 months in French and American oak. The wine is ruby colored with a fruit-driven nose. The mouthfeel is chewy with lots of red berry flavor that shows through to the long, smooth finish. For more information on the wine, visit Ole Imports.
The 2004 Emilio Moro Ribera Del Duero ($$$) is 100% tempranillo grown in the Ribera del Duero region. The area where it is grown can be referred to as the slow-motion D.O., as nighttime temperatures often get so low that the grape ripening process goes into a sort of suspended animation until the morning sun starts it up again. This leads to a longer ripening process, offering multiple, complex character notes. This had the best response out of all the tempranillos I poured that night. Tempranillos from Ribera del Duero are generally a safe bet. This one can be found at Barcelona (155 Temple St.).
The 2005 Bodegas y Vinedos de Aldeanueva Cortijo III Tinto or Cortijo III, for short ($), is an unoaked, entry level tempranillo great for winning over the Yellowtail set. A fruity daily drinker with a mellow finish, this wine falls into my art-opening category.
2005 Bodegas Alto Moncayo "Veraton" Campo de Borja ($$$) was a great garnacha from the Spanish Northeast. It was poured along with 2005 Bodegas Alto Moncayo "Alto Moncayo" Campo de Borja ($$$-$$$$+). The "Veraton" has scored 92 points from Stephen Tanzer, and is a MUST BUY for fans of garnacha (grenache). The "Alto Moncayo" rates 92+ points from Tanzer, because he believes it will improve significantly with age. This was evident in the tannic structure of the wine (and the faces of some who drank it). I felt it drank well, considering it was so young, and anyone buying it for immediate consumption would need to use a decanter. This is a MUST BUY for anyone with a proper cellar.
2005 Bodegas Hijos de Juan Gil "Juan Gil" ($-$$) has been mentioned here numerous times and also made my Top Wines of 2007 list. This wine is a MUST BUY for everyone, and anyone who hasn't gone out and grabbed one of these beauties yet has some serious issues. This wine, a monastrell grown in Jumilla, represented the hotterer microclimate out of all the wines I poured, and generated the most buzz out of the crowd. Quite a few people ignored the spit bucket for this one.
Who the hell are these people?!?!
I also got a chance to pour at the Bobby Valentine Celebrity Wine and Food Experience at the Greenwich Hyatt. Another silent auction/tasting event, this one goes to benefit the Mickey Lione Jr. Fund and features hundreds of sports celebrities mingling with the denizens of lower Fairfield County. The event was great, and not just because I got to pour for Don Mattingly, Brian Cashman, and Baba Booey. Phew, let me pick those names up off the floor.
This time I had wines from Mendoza, Argentina, obviously Malbecs and Malbec blends.
2006 Clos de los Siete ($-$$) was in attendance, of course, with 2005 Cuvelier los Andes "Coleccion" ($$$) acting as relief pitcher. Despite the price difference, most people preferred the 'Siete, which I think can be attributed to the extra year of soil time. The vines for both of these wines are fairly young, and the extra year in-soil makes an amazing difference. Both wines are MUST BUYS for fans of fruit-forward-oak-influenced New World-style reds.
The 2005 Alta Vista Grande Reserva Terroir Selection Malbec ($$) was a traditional style malbec that offered a dark purple color, aromas of spice, farmsoil, and berry, and a flavor of ripe fruit. It was a good wine, but I think it is overshadowed by the 2004 vintage. The tannic structure, while soft, lends this wine to the possibility of cellar time (though brief), so it may get better with age.
2005 Colome Estate Malbec ($$$) had a bold, red fruit nose with flavors of blackberry and red cherry, with noticeable tannins, and a long "woody" finish. Many of the people who tried this wine came back to tell me that it got even better when they drank it with food.
I was invited by Valley Discount Wine and Liquor (mentioned before) to Easton for a charity silent auction. Four wine tables were to be at the event, representing Argentina, Australia, Italy, and Spain. I was asked to pour Spanish wine and talk the talk with some of Easton's philanthropy set.
We chose six reds and one white, running the gamut of Spanish microclimates, while allowing side by side comparisons of the same grape.
For the white, I poured 2006 Castelo do Papa Godello ($), which made my Top Wines of 2007 list. It was a hit, mainly among those who favor Sauvignon Blanc.
The reds got a bit more complicated, and I served them based on their climates, starting with colder temperatures and moving warmer. Of course, we are talking about Spain, so I really went from hotter to hotterer.
I started with 2003 Matarredonda Juan Rojo ($$), a tempranillo grown in the Toro region of North-Central Spain. Much of the vines used for this wine are between 70 and 140 years old, dating from before the phylloxera epidemic that wiped out much of Europe's vineyards. It's aged for 8 months in French and American oak. The wine is ruby colored with a fruit-driven nose. The mouthfeel is chewy with lots of red berry flavor that shows through to the long, smooth finish. For more information on the wine, visit Ole Imports.
The 2004 Emilio Moro Ribera Del Duero ($$$) is 100% tempranillo grown in the Ribera del Duero region. The area where it is grown can be referred to as the slow-motion D.O., as nighttime temperatures often get so low that the grape ripening process goes into a sort of suspended animation until the morning sun starts it up again. This leads to a longer ripening process, offering multiple, complex character notes. This had the best response out of all the tempranillos I poured that night. Tempranillos from Ribera del Duero are generally a safe bet. This one can be found at Barcelona (155 Temple St.).
The 2005 Bodegas y Vinedos de Aldeanueva Cortijo III Tinto or Cortijo III, for short ($), is an unoaked, entry level tempranillo great for winning over the Yellowtail set. A fruity daily drinker with a mellow finish, this wine falls into my art-opening category.
2005 Bodegas Alto Moncayo "Veraton" Campo de Borja ($$$) was a great garnacha from the Spanish Northeast. It was poured along with 2005 Bodegas Alto Moncayo "Alto Moncayo" Campo de Borja ($$$-$$$$+). The "Veraton" has scored 92 points from Stephen Tanzer, and is a MUST BUY for fans of garnacha (grenache). The "Alto Moncayo" rates 92+ points from Tanzer, because he believes it will improve significantly with age. This was evident in the tannic structure of the wine (and the faces of some who drank it). I felt it drank well, considering it was so young, and anyone buying it for immediate consumption would need to use a decanter. This is a MUST BUY for anyone with a proper cellar.
2005 Bodegas Hijos de Juan Gil "Juan Gil" ($-$$) has been mentioned here numerous times and also made my Top Wines of 2007 list. This wine is a MUST BUY for everyone, and anyone who hasn't gone out and grabbed one of these beauties yet has some serious issues. This wine, a monastrell grown in Jumilla, represented the hotterer microclimate out of all the wines I poured, and generated the most buzz out of the crowd. Quite a few people ignored the spit bucket for this one.
I also got a chance to pour at the Bobby Valentine Celebrity Wine and Food Experience at the Greenwich Hyatt. Another silent auction/tasting event, this one goes to benefit the Mickey Lione Jr. Fund and features hundreds of sports celebrities mingling with the denizens of lower Fairfield County. The event was great, and not just because I got to pour for Don Mattingly, Brian Cashman, and Baba Booey. Phew, let me pick those names up off the floor.
This time I had wines from Mendoza, Argentina, obviously Malbecs and Malbec blends.
2006 Clos de los Siete ($-$$) was in attendance, of course, with 2005 Cuvelier los Andes "Coleccion" ($$$) acting as relief pitcher. Despite the price difference, most people preferred the 'Siete, which I think can be attributed to the extra year of soil time. The vines for both of these wines are fairly young, and the extra year in-soil makes an amazing difference. Both wines are MUST BUYS for fans of fruit-forward-oak-influenced New World-style reds.
The 2005 Alta Vista Grande Reserva Terroir Selection Malbec ($$) was a traditional style malbec that offered a dark purple color, aromas of spice, farmsoil, and berry, and a flavor of ripe fruit. It was a good wine, but I think it is overshadowed by the 2004 vintage. The tannic structure, while soft, lends this wine to the possibility of cellar time (though brief), so it may get better with age.
2005 Colome Estate Malbec ($$$) had a bold, red fruit nose with flavors of blackberry and red cherry, with noticeable tannins, and a long "woody" finish. Many of the people who tried this wine came back to tell me that it got even better when they drank it with food.
Clos de los Siete about to get scarce
Clos de los Siete 2006 ($$), which we have mentioned at least a couple hundred times went and got great ratings from all the top wine critics. Besides reaffirming that the ecWino crew knows what's up, this means it's about to get much harder to find. Connecticut had been the top seller of 'Siete for a few years, but with the great ratings, other states are catching on. In turn, the suppliers are sending quite a bit of Connecticut's allocation elsewhere.
This means you're going to have to get out there and buy this wine now. As a refresher, it's fruit forward and oak-influenced, produced by a superstar team of winemakers, and one of the best bottles of red you're going to find at this price point.
This means you're going to have to get out there and buy this wine now. As a refresher, it's fruit forward and oak-influenced, produced by a superstar team of winemakers, and one of the best bottles of red you're going to find at this price point.
Monday, January 7, 2008
we went and got engaged as an excuse to drink better wine for little to no money
Apologies for the lack of recent posts, it's been a hectic couple of weeks, what with the ecWino team finally getting engaged and all. (It took almost fourteen years)
There have been some impromptu celebrations as a result...
The night of the engagement, we went to Crave in Ansonia (102 Main St. 203.735.3300). We first mentioned it here back in November. I kept hearing it referred to as the new Roomba, and had stopped in a few times for lunch (which by the way offers probably the best black bean burrito I've ever had), but had yet to go for dinner. We got all crazy (read: vegetarian) and ordered a stew that was to die for. More importantly, we ordered Black Bart Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah 2005 ($$$-$$$$) from Veraison.
The past two vintages have scored well over 90 points from anyone worth their salt (and a few who aren't), and this bottle did not disappoint. The color is a striking ruby color, with a nose of bacon or smoked pork and cinnamon. The palate offers some flavors consistent in California syrah -- blackberry, cherry, and black ground pepper -- but also offers up dark chocolate and espresso. The whole wine is smooth and elegantly balanced with a mellow finish.
For comparison, we recently tasted a 2004 Black Bart Syrah ($$$), which had very similar qualities. The main differences in our notes were a nose that offered more wildflowers than "bacon", hints of salted red meat on the palate, and a finish that brings you back to the wildflowers.
Both of these wines are highly recommended if you get the desire to spoil yourself.
Later that evening we ended up at, where else, 116 Crown in New Haven. I wanted to keep the evening on the high note, so we ordered a bottle of 2006 Flowers Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($$$-$$$$). This wine is well deserving of its cult status, but was a bit of a let down compared to the Black Bart. I realize I'm comparing apples to oranges, but I suggest drinking this wine on its own, as opposed to giving it second bottle status.
It offers plenty of red fruit on the nose, but the fruit is kept tame by curry spices and French oak, giving this wine an overall exotic character. The wine's mouthfeel is soft and plush with the fruit masking the acidity until the finish. It's definitely a California wine, but the exotic accents made me feel this was the perfect wine for drinking at a Moroccan resort overlooking the sea. The curry makes me think this wine may stand up to spicier light dishes, but is perfectly fine on its own.
There were several celebratory bottles of Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Yellow Label ($$$) which is one of our favorite non vintage Champagnes. It was mentioned back on Christmas.
The real star, however, was our celebratory bottle of Krug Grand Cuvee ($$$$$+). This Champagne is a blend of several years worth of grapes, from several vineyards surrounding the main Krug estate. The color is a perfect golden yellow, reminding me more of a fine Weissbier than a Champagne. The nose is floral with touches of honey, while the palate is rich and nutty. This almost spoiled Clicquot for me, but fortunately is normally out of my financial reach. This nonvintage sparkler is ensured consistency in flavor and quality by blending still wines from the previous six to ten vintages with younger grapes.
There have been some impromptu celebrations as a result...
The night of the engagement, we went to Crave in Ansonia (102 Main St. 203.735.3300). We first mentioned it here back in November. I kept hearing it referred to as the new Roomba, and had stopped in a few times for lunch (which by the way offers probably the best black bean burrito I've ever had), but had yet to go for dinner. We got all crazy (read: vegetarian) and ordered a stew that was to die for. More importantly, we ordered Black Bart Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah 2005 ($$$-$$$$) from Veraison.
The past two vintages have scored well over 90 points from anyone worth their salt (and a few who aren't), and this bottle did not disappoint. The color is a striking ruby color, with a nose of bacon or smoked pork and cinnamon. The palate offers some flavors consistent in California syrah -- blackberry, cherry, and black ground pepper -- but also offers up dark chocolate and espresso. The whole wine is smooth and elegantly balanced with a mellow finish.
For comparison, we recently tasted a 2004 Black Bart Syrah ($$$), which had very similar qualities. The main differences in our notes were a nose that offered more wildflowers than "bacon", hints of salted red meat on the palate, and a finish that brings you back to the wildflowers.
Both of these wines are highly recommended if you get the desire to spoil yourself.
Later that evening we ended up at, where else, 116 Crown in New Haven. I wanted to keep the evening on the high note, so we ordered a bottle of 2006 Flowers Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($$$-$$$$). This wine is well deserving of its cult status, but was a bit of a let down compared to the Black Bart. I realize I'm comparing apples to oranges, but I suggest drinking this wine on its own, as opposed to giving it second bottle status.
It offers plenty of red fruit on the nose, but the fruit is kept tame by curry spices and French oak, giving this wine an overall exotic character. The wine's mouthfeel is soft and plush with the fruit masking the acidity until the finish. It's definitely a California wine, but the exotic accents made me feel this was the perfect wine for drinking at a Moroccan resort overlooking the sea. The curry makes me think this wine may stand up to spicier light dishes, but is perfectly fine on its own.
There were several celebratory bottles of Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Yellow Label ($$$) which is one of our favorite non vintage Champagnes. It was mentioned back on Christmas.
The real star, however, was our celebratory bottle of Krug Grand Cuvee ($$$$$+). This Champagne is a blend of several years worth of grapes, from several vineyards surrounding the main Krug estate. The color is a perfect golden yellow, reminding me more of a fine Weissbier than a Champagne. The nose is floral with touches of honey, while the palate is rich and nutty. This almost spoiled Clicquot for me, but fortunately is normally out of my financial reach. This nonvintage sparkler is ensured consistency in flavor and quality by blending still wines from the previous six to ten vintages with younger grapes.
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