Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Easton, CT digs Spanish wine, Don Mattingly likes Mendoza

I had the opportunity to pour wines at a couple of charity events recently. Pourings generally consist of standing on your feet for hours with no help, being harassed by drunkards and cork dorks, and running out of wine before you actually get to try any. These two were a bit cooler...


Spanish Wine attacks Easton


I was invited by Valley Discount Wine and Liquor (mentioned before) to Easton for a charity silent auction. Four wine tables were to be at the event, representing Argentina, Australia, Italy, and Spain. I was asked to pour Spanish wine and talk the talk with some of Easton's philanthropy set.
We chose six reds and one white, running the gamut of Spanish microclimates, while allowing side by side comparisons of the same grape.

For the white, I poured 2006 Castelo do Papa Godello ($), which made my Top Wines of 2007 list. It was a hit, mainly among those who favor Sauvignon Blanc.

The reds got a bit more complicated, and I served them based on their climates, starting with colder temperatures and moving warmer. Of course, we are talking about Spain, so I really went from hotter to hotterer.
I started with 2003 Matarredonda Juan Rojo ($$), a tempranillo grown in the Toro region of North-Central Spain. Much of the vines used for this wine are between 70 and 140 years old, dating from before the phylloxera epidemic that wiped out much of Europe's vineyards. It's aged for 8 months in French and American oak. The wine is ruby colored with a fruit-driven nose. The mouthfeel is chewy with lots of red berry flavor that shows through to the long, smooth finish. For more information on the wine, visit Ole Imports.
The 2004 Emilio Moro Ribera Del Duero ($$$) is 100% tempranillo grown in the Ribera del Duero region. The area where it is grown can be referred to as the slow-motion D.O., as nighttime temperatures often get so low that the grape ripening process goes into a sort of suspended animation until the morning sun starts it up again. This leads to a longer ripening process, offering multiple, complex character notes. This had the best response out of all the tempranillos I poured that night. Tempranillos from Ribera del Duero are generally a safe bet. This one can be found at Barcelona (155 Temple St.).
The 2005 Bodegas y Vinedos de Aldeanueva Cortijo III Tinto or Cortijo III, for short ($), is an unoaked, entry level tempranillo great for winning over the Yellowtail set. A fruity daily drinker with a mellow finish, this wine falls into my art-opening category.
2005 Bodegas Alto Moncayo "Veraton" Campo de Borja ($$$) was a great garnacha from the Spanish Northeast. It was poured along with 2005 Bodegas Alto Moncayo "Alto Moncayo" Campo de Borja ($$$-$$$$+). The "Veraton" has scored 92 points from Stephen Tanzer, and is a MUST BUY for fans of garnacha (grenache). The "Alto Moncayo" rates 92+ points from Tanzer, because he believes it will improve significantly with age. This was evident in the tannic structure of the wine (and the faces of some who drank it). I felt it drank well, considering it was so young, and anyone buying it for immediate consumption would need to use a decanter. This is a MUST BUY for anyone with a proper cellar.
2005 Bodegas Hijos de Juan Gil "Juan Gil" ($-$$) has been mentioned here numerous times and also made my Top Wines of 2007 list. This wine is a MUST BUY for everyone, and anyone who hasn't gone out and grabbed one of these beauties yet has some serious issues. This wine, a monastrell grown in Jumilla, represented the hotterer microclimate out of all the wines I poured, and generated the most buzz out of the crowd. Quite a few people ignored the spit bucket for this one.


Who the hell are these people?!?!


I also got a chance to pour at the Bobby Valentine Celebrity Wine and Food Experience at the Greenwich Hyatt. Another silent auction/tasting event, this one goes to benefit the Mickey Lione Jr. Fund and features hundreds of sports celebrities mingling with the denizens of lower Fairfield County. The event was great, and not just because I got to pour for Don Mattingly, Brian Cashman, and Baba Booey. Phew, let me pick those names up off the floor.
This time I had wines from Mendoza, Argentina, obviously Malbecs and Malbec blends.
2006 Clos de los Siete ($-$$) was in attendance, of course, with 2005 Cuvelier los Andes "Coleccion" ($$$) acting as relief pitcher. Despite the price difference, most people preferred the 'Siete, which I think can be attributed to the extra year of soil time. The vines for both of these wines are fairly young, and the extra year in-soil makes an amazing difference. Both wines are MUST BUYS for fans of fruit-forward-oak-influenced New World-style reds.
The 2005 Alta Vista Grande Reserva Terroir Selection Malbec ($$) was a traditional style malbec that offered a dark purple color, aromas of spice, farmsoil, and berry, and a flavor of ripe fruit. It was a good wine, but I think it is overshadowed by the 2004 vintage. The tannic structure, while soft, lends this wine to the possibility of cellar time (though brief), so it may get better with age.
2005 Colome Estate Malbec ($$$) had a bold, red fruit nose with flavors of blackberry and red cherry, with noticeable tannins, and a long "woody" finish. Many of the people who tried this wine came back to tell me that it got even better when they drank it with food.

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