Clos de los Siete

Clos de los Siete ($$) is a blend from seven different vineyards in the Mendoza region of Argentina. This wine is a venture of Michel Rolland, a Bordeaux based oenologist (super-duper grape guy) who has set himself apart from his countrymen by branching out into different parts of the world. His wines tend to be fruit-heavy and oak-induced, and Clos de los Siete is no different.
Tannic and slightly acidic, this wine should age well, and as a result, older vintages tend to cost more. The 2005 is on shelves now, while the 2004 ($$) and the 2003 ($$-$$$) may be harder to find. I was smart enough to get my hands on a few cases (six-packs) of the '04 a while back, so butter me up enough and we'll open one. 2003 is generally considered to be the best vintage of the lot, but don't let that scare you away. This wine, including the '05, is a MUST buy.
It is a dark velvet color, with a slightly heavy, but not overpowering body. Even to the uninitiated, this wine will be silky smooth, and may be the wine that converts you to the dark side. Wine Spectator gave this wine an 89.
The wine itself is 50% malbec, 30% merlot, 10% cabernet sauvignon, and 10% syrah, all of which can be tasted in the wine. Each grape lends its particular qualities to the overall effect of the wine, making it more interesting with each sip.
This wine will also go over well with your hippie friends, as it is made with gravity power, eliminating the need for electric pumps and is run by seven friends on a shared piece of land.

2004 Lorca Malbec Opalo Vistaflores

Carlos at Firehouse 12 has a fever, and the only prescription is not more cowbell, but rather, Malbec. Just about every time I visit Firehouse, 'Los whips out some new Malbec that he is completely in love with. I can honestly say I've yet to have the same Malbec twice -- and none of his suggestions have been bad.
Thursday night, he pulled out 2004 Lorca Malbec Opalo Vistaflores ($-$$). And, as usual, there was no disappointment. Another Argentinian wine from Mendoza, this red hails from the Vistaflores vineyard. This vineyard is actually the site where Clos de los Siete is bottled, and the Lorca Malbec has not escaped the influence of Michel Rolland (insert sound of angels' trumpets).
The Vistaflores vineyard sits high in the Andes, where the vines are vertically trained, rather than set upon trellises. The "bushes" are trimmed often to minimize yield, but maximize quality.
The wine itself is lively, without being overbearing or too fruity. It hints at blueberry and apple. The tannins are smooth. The wine has a very Old World feel. It is unfiltered, and aged in concrete and stainless steel, as opposed to oak.
Buy this wine as an alternative to higher priced items such as Clos de los Siete or Cuvelier los Andes (mentioned before). They've got a full case, and per the norm, will probably not replace it, so you'll need to get down there ASAP.
Firehouse is also serving up the Tannat Reserva from Bodegas Carrau by the glass (previous review).

Clos de los Siete about to get scarce

Clos de los Siete 2006 ($$), which we have mentioned at least a couple hundred times went and got great ratings from all the top wine critics. Besides reaffirming that the ecWino crew knows what's up, this means it's about to get much harder to find. Connecticut had been the top seller of 'Siete for a few years, but with the great ratings, other states are catching on. In turn, the suppliers are sending quite a bit of Connecticut's allocation elsewhere.
This means you're going to have to get out there and buy this wine now. As a refresher, it's fruit forward and oak-influenced, produced by a superstar team of winemakers, and one of the best bottles of red you're going to find at this price point.

Breaking News!!! Clos de Los Siete by the glass.

Alright, maybe not breaking news, but one of ECW's wine-spies has informed us that Firehouse 12 is serving Clos de los Siete by the glass (or at least they were last Saturday). This is one of Carlos' You-Gotta-Ask-For-It items; it's not on any wine list. Tell 'em Elm City Wino sent ya!.

Firehouse 12's website and myspace.

Easton, CT digs Spanish wine, Don Mattingly likes Mendoza

I had the opportunity to pour wines at a couple of charity events recently. Pourings generally consist of standing on your feet for hours with no help, being harassed by drunkards and cork dorks, and running out of wine before you actually get to try any. These two were a bit cooler...


Spanish Wine attacks Easton

I was invited by Valley Discount Wine and Liquor (mentioned before) to Easton for a charity silent auction. Four wine tables were to be at the event, representing Argentina, Australia, Italy, and Spain. I was asked to pour Spanish wine and talk the talk with some of Easton's philanthropy set.
We chose six reds and one white, running the gamut of Spanish microclimates, while allowing side by side comparisons of the same grape.

For the white, I poured 2006 Castelo do Papa Godello ($), which made my Top Wines of 2007 list. It was a hit, mainly among those who favor Sauvignon Blanc.

The reds got a bit more complicated, and I served them based on their climates, starting with colder temperatures and moving warmer. Of course, we are talking about Spain, so I really went from hotter to hotterer.
I started with 2003 Matarredonda Juan Rojo ($$), a tempranillo grown in the Toro region of North-Central Spain. Much of the vines used for this wine are between 70 and 140 years old, dating from before the phylloxera epidemic that wiped out much of Europe's vineyards. It's aged for 8 months in French and American oak. The wine is ruby colored with a fruit-driven nose. The mouthfeel is chewy with lots of red berry flavor that shows through to the long, smooth finish. For more information on the wine, visit Ole Imports.
The 2004 Emilio Moro Ribera Del Duero ($$$) is 100% tempranillo grown in the Ribera del Duero region. The area where it is grown can be referred to as the slow-motion D.O., as nighttime temperatures often get so low that the grape ripening process goes into a sort of suspended animation until the morning sun starts it up again. This leads to a longer ripening process, offering multiple, complex character notes. This had the best response out of all the tempranillos I poured that night. Tempranillos from Ribera del Duero are generally a safe bet. This one can be found at Barcelona (155 Temple St.).
The 2005 Bodegas y Vinedos de Aldeanueva Cortijo III Tinto or Cortijo III, for short ($), is an unoaked, entry level tempranillo great for winning over the Yellowtail set. A fruity daily drinker with a mellow finish, this wine falls into my art-opening category.
2005 Bodegas Alto Moncayo "Veraton" Campo de Borja ($$$) was a great garnacha from the Spanish Northeast. It was poured along with 2005 Bodegas Alto Moncayo "Alto Moncayo" Campo de Borja ($$$-$$$$+). The "Veraton" has scored 92 points from Stephen Tanzer, and is a MUST BUY for fans of garnacha (grenache). The "Alto Moncayo" rates 92+ points from Tanzer, because he believes it will improve significantly with age. This was evident in the tannic structure of the wine (and the faces of some who drank it). I felt it drank well, considering it was so young, and anyone buying it for immediate consumption would need to use a decanter. This is a MUST BUY for anyone with a proper cellar.
2005 Bodegas Hijos de Juan Gil "Juan Gil" ($-$$) has been mentioned here numerous times and also made my Top Wines of 2007 list. This wine is a MUST BUY for everyone, and anyone who hasn't gone out and grabbed one of these beauties yet has some serious issues. This wine, a monastrell grown in Jumilla, represented the hotterer microclimate out of all the wines I poured, and generated the most buzz out of the crowd. Quite a few people ignored the spit bucket for this one.


Who the hell are these people?!?!

I also got a chance to pour at the Bobby Valentine Celebrity Wine and Food Experience at the Greenwich Hyatt. Another silent auction/tasting event, this one goes to benefit the Mickey Lione Jr. Fund and features hundreds of sports celebrities mingling with the denizens of lower Fairfield County. The event was great, and not just because I got to pour for Don Mattingly, Brian Cashman, and Baba Booey. Phew, let me pick those names up off the floor.
This time I had wines from Mendoza, Argentina, obviously Malbecs and Malbec blends.
2006 Clos de los Siete ($-$$) was in attendance, of course, with 2005 Cuvelier los Andes "Coleccion" ($$$) acting as relief pitcher. Despite the price difference, most people preferred the 'Siete, which I think can be attributed to the extra year of soil time. The vines for both of these wines are fairly young, and the extra year in-soil makes an amazing difference. Both wines are MUST BUYS for fans of fruit-forward-oak-influenced New World-style reds.
The 2005 Alta Vista Grande Reserva Terroir Selection Malbec ($$) was a traditional style malbec that offered a dark purple color, aromas of spice, farmsoil, and berry, and a flavor of ripe fruit. It was a good wine, but I think it is overshadowed by the 2004 vintage. The tannic structure, while soft, lends this wine to the possibility of cellar time (though brief), so it may get better with age.
2005 Colome Estate Malbec ($$$) had a bold, red fruit nose with flavors of blackberry and red cherry, with noticeable tannins, and a long "woody" finish. Many of the people who tried this wine came back to tell me that it got even better when they drank it with food.

Cuvelier Los Andes Coleccion

"So a man walks into a fortune teller. He tells the woman he has a bottle of Cuvelier Los Andes Coleccion 2005 ($$-$$$) and doesn't know what it tastes like. 'I want to know if I should open it,' he asks. The fortune teller tells him the wine is fruit heavy and oak influenced. 'You're a fake!' he exclaims."

Get it? Get it?? Okay, maybe not. Cuvelier Los Andes is another wine produced with the help of Michel Rolland, and all his wines are fruit-forward and oak-influenced. (Awful joke, I know.)
Earlier in the week, I told you about Clos de los Siete, another Michel Rolland creation, and it's seven producers from seven vineyards. This wine is another one, this time specifically from Bertrand and Jean-Guy Cuvelier's Mendoza vineyard. These boys are known for otherwise radical ideas, for example using grapes from vines only 3 years old.
This wine is a super dark ruby color. The nose is bold, with scents of blueberries and dried plums. The mouthfeel is smooth, with grainy tannins you can almost feel. The taste is more blueberries and black cherries and wood. If this wine were a tad more complex, it could change your life, but it is still an amazing wine that you must try.
Buy two bottles, because you'll want to open both of them.

Top Wines of the Year (according to me)

Elm City Wino’s Top Wines of the Year...


So we’re about to wrap up another year. For me, this one has afforded me many great wine tasting opportunities for which I am grateful. It’s tough to try to narrow down the year into just a few favorites. I could easily list 20 or so wines that I was really into this year, but that list would more than likely be limited to mid-dollar, small production reds, as these tend to be my go-to wines. That would lead to a boring list.
I’ve decided to break down my year-end summary of wines to 20 wines. Ten will be under $15 and ten will be over $15 with each list being divided equally into reds and whites.
As with anything, wine is subjective, and this list in no means implies that you will love every wine on it. It just means I did.
Cheers!
-Matt Uva


...the Reds

under $15

5. Dominio de Eguren Protocolo
I mentioned this wine back in October. I still feel this wine is an excellent buy.

4. Nine Mile Road Cabernet Sauvignon
This Aussie red from American Estates has also been mentioned before.

3. Enrique Foster "Ique" Malbec
This wine is made without any oak, which makes it the perfect wine for discovering the Malbec grape in a pure form. It is a beautiful ruby-red color with a nose of red fruit and earth. Once in the mouth, the wine is slightly young, but will open up nicely with a short amount of time in the glass. The flavors of strawberry, raspberry, and licorice are complemented by a body that is slightly more than medium. Many of New Haven's restaurants have had an increase in their sales of Malbec, and in turn have begun to add more of them to their wine lists. The "Ique" Malbec is a great introduction to this versatile grape.

2. Domaine de la Solitude Cotes du Rhone
Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, and Mourvedre come together to make this mellow example of Cotes du Rhone. Dark purple fruits dominate the nose, with some lighter hints of cooking spices. The wine is medium bodied with fruit and mineral flavors. Middle of the road acidity and tannin structure mean this wine is fine on its own or paired with lighter fare.

1. Luzon 2005
My under $15 Red of the Year has been mentioned before. It received 87 points from the Wine Spectator. Just buy it already.


over $15

5. Bodegas Juan Gil
This wine just breaks the $15 mark. Go back to April and read about it.

4. Palari Faro 2003
Three grapes, indigenous to Sicily, small production, and a kick-ass wine. Read about it here.

3. Cenit 2003/2004
I'm giving it to both vintages here. I've mentioned them before. Most wine snobs would be against the idea of combining vintages. Then again, most wine snobs are so into ratings that they'll only buy a wine that has been given a high score. The problem is, by the time a wine gets scored well, it's completely out of stock in every store and warehouse, and no longer affordable at most restaurants.
It's a good idea to check a wine's provenance, or vintage history, when making a purchase. Were previous vintages scored well? Does the winemaker consistently make a good product? Using this concept, you could purchase the next vintage of Cenit when it comes out and feel pretty confident about its quality.

2. Clos de los Siete
Okay, this wine is pretty much mentioned all the time around these parts.

1. Ken Wright Cellars Elton Vineyard 2006
The Pacific Northwest produces two different pinots. There is the mellow Burgundian pinot, and the purely American fruit monster. The Ken Wright Cellars produces one of the finest monsters available. The wine smells and tastes of candied cherries with a perfectly balanced mouthfeel. This wine also displays the potential for some long-term aging. This is a super limited quantity wine, with fewer than 150 cases produced. Apparently the majority of Connecticut's allocation has made its way to one restaurant, Ferrante in Stamford.



...the Whites
note: I don't drink nearly enough white wine, so my choices from this year's tasting notes were limited

under $15

5. Mionetto N/V Prosecco Brut
The simplest way to look at prosecco is to consider it Italy's answer to Champagne. Technically, this would be completely inappropriate as you would be comparing apples and oranges, but it is sparkly. This effervescent wine from Sergio Mionetto is one of the better examples of prosecco at this price point. There is a nice balance of fruit and tartness with tight bubbles and a floral aroma.

4. Lindeman's 2006 South Africa Chardonnay
This wine was mentioned before.

3. St. Ludwig Bernkasteler Kurfurstlay Riesling Spatlese 2006
Yup, that one's a mouthful. Go here to learn how to decipher German wine labels.
The wine offers a nose of cold weather fruits, gravel, and cedar with flavors of peach and apple in a less dry white.

2. Castelo do Papa Godello
This amazing white hails from Valdeorras in the Northwest of Spain, where the rebellious nature of the people spills over into their winemaking. Using a grape, godello, normally reserved for blending, Castelo do Papa has created a wine with fresh aromas of fruits, mineral, dried herbs, key lime, and even ocean breeze. Melon, pineapple, and mineral flavors abound, while refined tannins lead the way for a cool, long finish.

1. Inama Soave Classico
Lemongrass and wildflowers run the bright, fruity nose, while light citrus and mineral occupy the tongue. The finish is crisp and lemony. The wine is aged in stainless steel, allowing the garganega grape to show its full potential.


over $15

5. 2005 Ferrari Carano Fume Blanc
Go back to May to read about it. It's on the wine list at Portofino.

4. Larochette Macon Blanc
Read about it here.

3. Vina Sila Naia Des
Read about it here.

2. Argyle "Nuthouse" Chardonnay
I was really impressed by Arglyle "Nuthouse" Pinot Noir, so much so that it inspired me to try this wine. The nose offers peach, hazelnut, and vanilla, while the mouth is creamy peach. The aftertaste is long and spicy.

1. JJ Prum Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2005
Yup another long one. Go back to German Wine Estates to decipher the label.
This one made Wine Spectator's Top 100 at 14th. 'Nuff said. It smells like key lime pie and peach cobbler with flavors of red and green apples. The aftertaste is dominated by the apple with a hint of the key lime.
There's almost zero chance you're going to find this wine. Go with my provenance theory from earlier and buy the next vintage when it's available.





And Elm City Wino's Wine of the Year is...

Bruno Colin Premier Cru Les Gravieres Santenay 2004 ($$$-$$$$)
This pinot noir from Burgundy is a prime example of what a cooler climate can do to a grape. This wine even tastes like cool weather.
It has a deep garnet color and a nose of black cherry (think Cherry Coke) and wildflowers, followed by a fruit forward, medium to heavy bodied wine. The aftertaste was super smooth and full of dark fruit. This is the only wine that has ever given me goosebumps.

Elm City Gossip

Yeah, yeah. It's been a while.
We've been busy. Really busy.


We hear that Barcelona New Haven has hired a mixologist and now has a full-time DJ. Looks like everyone wants to ride 116 Crown's EXCELLENT rating from the New York Times.
J&D at 116 tell us they'll have to stay, "Three steps ahead". The new chef is already turning heads. Some vegan options have appeared on the menu; I'm into the Tempura Green Beans, although it's a little small. New vegan options are on the horizon as well.
Wine to drink when you're a three-step vegan DJ? Peter Lehmann's Barossa Valley Shiraz.

A new beer bar has opened up in downtown (or "Crowntown" for the boozerati out there). Prime 16 is across from the Omni on Temple Street and features 40 different bottles and 20 different taps, all without a single Budweiser in sight. MoJo is the only beer I'd drop from the list. Apparently they have food, too, but I didn't notice.
Beer to drink at the beer bar? Celebrator Double Bock from Ayinger.

Spoiler Alert: New Haven Advocate Reader's Poll...
Our sources tell us Geronimo (271 Crown St.) has won Best New Restaurant. Interesting, since reviews I've read give the impression that you get better table service at a McDonald's.
Wine to drink at McDonald's? Robert Mondavi (you never know what's in it, but it always tastes like the same old crap)

Rudy's Restaurant (372 Elm St.), known far and wide for their Belgian Frites, appears to have changed their recipe. Mo reports that something is different, but she couldn't exactly pin it down. "The oil seems different. The potatoes are softer. This is definitely different." I didn't notice, but that could have been because of Rudy's stellar beer stash located in a little used cooler to the left of the bar. Anything goes down easy after a couple of Rochefort 10's.
Beer to drink after a couple of Rochies? Leffe

Clos de los Siete is coming back to the area. It's still going to be the 2006 vintage. The Owl Shop has had it by-the-glass the whole time, but it had gotten scarce. The best place in town to find it is definitely going to be Grand Vin (28 E. Grand Ave).
Wine to drink while waiting for the 'Siete? Venta La Ossa, tempranillo from La Mancha.

In non-booze related gossip, it seems that due to a complaint to the health department, Fuel Coffeeshop (516 Chapel St.) can no longer allow dogs into the shop. Fuel is a small neighborhood joint, in a neighborhood full of dog owners. It's sad someone would complain. It's not like the dogs were making those amazing lattes.
Wine to drink when you're anti-dog? Most any California Sauvignon Blanc, which will often smell of cat pee.

Updates

Play Magazine, the New Haven Register's weekly answer to the New Haven Advocate, did a write-up on the 50 Beers From 50 States tasting held recently at New England Brewing Co. (and previously mentioned on ecWino). If you look closely, we've got a quick mention in the article. Yay, us.
Our favorites included...
Orlio Black Lager ($) My tasting notes say the following, "coffee, coffee, coffee, caramel".
Maui Brewing Bikini Blonde (N/A) It's not yet available in CT, but if you were to go to the Bru Room at BAR (254 Crown St.), order Jeff Browning's Blonde Lager, throw some lemon zest into it and shake, you'd pretty much get the idea.
Tommy Knocker Cocoa Porter (N/A) from Colorado, and also not yet available in CT is brewed with cocoa powder and honey. The chocolate taste had an almost artificial quality. It seemed as though it should be paired with one of those banana flavored bomb pops you used to get from the ice cream truck.
The biggest disappointments of the evening were Anheuser-Busch Blueberry (tasted like horse ass with red food coloring), Arrogant Bastard (too aggressive, with a nose of dirty laundry), and Avatar Jasmine IPA (bordered on stunt brew, too much jasmine).

Clos de los Siete ($$) (mentioned several times) is quickly on its way to being my favorite wine ever. Local legend, Rinsey, called me last night from the 19th floor of the Omni Hotel (155 Temple St.), where 'Siete is being served by the glass at John Davenport's. Great wine, a great nighttime view of New Haven, and total Rinse-a-bauchery makes for an awesome Friday night.
Also, Wine Spectator just rated the new vintage an 87.

Bodegas Torre Muga 2004 ($$$$) which can be found at Barcelona (also at 155 Temple) just scored a 95 from Wine Spectator, although after their recent high ratings of Yellow Tail, I'm beginning to refer to that magazine as Wine Speculator. Hopefully they were just drunk that day.
The Prado Enea and the Reserva from Muga, which we've mentioned before both scored an 85.

116 Crown (116 Crown St., duh) has run out of the Campion Central Coast Pinot Noir ($$$), and I'm sure I am partially to blame as I've gone through at least a case and a half since they've opened. I raved about it back in May, and now it's gone. They've replaced it with Domaine Coteau Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir 2006 ($$-$$$) from Oregon. This wine was more Burgundian than a fan of Oregon Pinot might be used to, but was good nonetheless. Earth and plum dominate the nose, while the palate is an attack of expressive black cherry and blackberry, "wrapped" in a silky texture, before giving way to a shorter (Burgundian) finish. This is by no means a typical Oregonian, but well worth the try.
The wine is unfined and unfiltered (hello, vegans!) and mellow enough to complement a wide range of vegan dishes.

Speaking of...

Only two months in the cellar, and the Bruno Colin 2004 Premier Cru Santenay "Les Gravieres" ($$$-$$$$) (my top wine of the year) is coming along nicely. The black cherry nose is still there, but the barnyard characteristics one would expect from an aged Burgundy are presenting themselves. The wine is already "smoother", with dark fruits on the lengthy finish. Still my favorite wine of the past 365 days...

Speaking of Bruno Colin, I also got to try his Bruno Colin 2004 Premier Cru Chassagne Montrachet "La Maltroie" ($$$$) today. For the newbs, white Burgundies from the Chassagne-Montrachet appellation are Chardonnay (in its true, non-Californian form). To the old-schoolers, yes, I opened this wine way too soon (like seven years too soon). Young as it was, it had a nose of green apples and fresh almonds, with a full fruit palate, all the while displaying a mineral character, from nose to finish. There is a hint of oak throughout, but it shows most in the aftertaste. Yummy.

Speaking of my top wines of the year, I also had more of the 2006 Clos de los Siete ($$). This time I didn't get the chance to use a decanter (more on that later) and found the wine to be too green. This doesn't bring it off my list, but it does mean you should drink it slowly, or open it at least a half hour before you drink it, or use a decanter. (Better yet, throw it in your basement, and try it again in six months) I mention this wine all the time -- I'm not turning back on it now.

Speaking of "green", I tried more of the 2005 Bodegas Alto Moncayo "Alto Moncayo" Campo de Borja ($$$) which Stephen Tanzer gave a 92+ rating because he felt it was too young, but would develop nicely over time. (Read related post here) It's already drinking better, although it was being consumed by two lovers of "New World" reds. Old World types should leave this in the cellar longer.
--Whoa! Matt, we don't have CELLARS, did you forget who you were writing this blog for?!?!?!?!?!
Sorry about that. Don't buy it yet. I know it might not be around for long, but unless you want your red wine to peel your face off from the inside (to quote Rinsey), stay very far away. That said, I'm in love with this wine.

Speaking of "in love", Arianna Occhipinti's 2006 Occhipinti Sicilia Rosso IGT Frappato ($$-$$$) is headed for the States. I'm going to the shipyard to meet it.

Speaking of "decanters", don't ever decant a wine while standing up above a white couch with Drew and Alex of 116 Crown, or you may end up with a broken decanter and a pink couch.

Speaking of pink, find a bottle of 2006 Etude Pinot Noir Rose ($$). Strawberry on the nose, crisp on the palate, short-lived but effective. Just get one.