Tuesday, December 4, 2007

Changes to come at 116

Besides the large white birch trees in wooden orbs out front, 116 Crown has some changes in store. The ecWino crew was invited to a tasting of some new wines that may make it onto their wine list, and I have to say, these get interesting.

Some highlights....

Palari "Faro" ($$$-$$$$) is a MUST BUY. This wine, a blend of Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Nocera -- what! wait! what?! Yup, nobody has ever heard of these grapes! Winemaker Salvatore Geraci is solely responsible for saving these three indigenous grapes from Sicily, near Messina. Nobody else uses these grapes anymore. Intrigued? Good. Keep reading --
The DOC (Vino a Denominazione di Origine Controllata -- think, "appellation") is the smallest in Sicily, if not the smallest in the world. At 6 acres it is roughly the size of one half of the New Haven Green. The grapes grow precariously on tall cliffs, forcing the wine to be handpicked. The wine is aged a year in oak and a year in bottle before being released to the public. As you can probably guess, this wine is super limited in production, so get it while you can. Yes, it's a little pricey, but it's definitely worth the splurge -- this is a once in a lifetime event; you'd spend $60 to parachute from Mt. Rushmore if you could. "Faro" means "lighthouse", and is named for the lighthouse on the same property that overlooks the Straits of Messina. Production is usually around 7,000 bottles. For the entire planet.
The wine itself is practically a topographical map of its terroir. A nose of blueberries is complimented by more complex notes, ranging the gamut of deep red fruits, hearty topsoil, and black tea. It is a pleasantly balanced wine, with just a hint of over-the-top alcohol, sure to please even the most hardcore California drinker, yet the wine still has that mellow, relaxed quality found in the best of Italian wines. The finish brings the drinker back to the berries and black tea for a brief moment.

Fans of old world whites will enjoy the Larochette Macon Blanc ($$$). This white Burgundy sees almost zero oak, instead relying on just the grape to bring you an impressive, yet mild white. Graphite, mineral, and citrus flavors dominate this wine, with a smooth acidity, and pleasant aftertaste. This wine also falls under my MUST BUY classification, with the stipulation that the drinker(s) be a fan of Old World European whites -- This will not impress a California Chard drinker.

Vina Sila Naia Des ($$-$$$) can already be found at Barcelona, so even if the folks at 116 don't pick this up, it can still be had. For fans of white wine, New or Old World, this is a MUST BUY. This Verdejo offers a nose of orange blossom and vanilla, with toasty oak. Pear and pinenuts dominate the taste, with a nice balance and aftertaste brought on by the oak. The regular Naia Verdejo ($-$$) is aged exclusively in stainless, and while still an exciting wine for the price, lacks the character that oak gives the Naia Des. This wine will complement most of the foods found on 116's small plate menu, or will do fine on its own.

Domaine du Closel ($$) is basically a chenin blanc that has been affected by botrytis. Botrytis, or noble rot is a fungus that attaches to the skin of the grape, but does not pierce it. Seriously, before you go any further, go to the Wikipedia entry for Botrytis, read all about it, and get un-grossed out. This wine was one of the most talked about wines at the tasting. It was suh-weet, bordering on dessert wine, and is a MUST TRY (yes, I just invented a new classification).
Polaner Selections and Louis/Dressner have a much better explanation of this wine than I could ever give you here.

Chateau Teyssier 2005 (NA) should serve as an introduction to the 2005 Bordeaux vintage. The wine was described by sommelier, Eoin Connors, as "what wine should taste like", and gave a lasting impression to all in attendance. Even the most hardcore of California wine fans were taken aback by this wine. Blackberries and wildflowers occupy the nose, while something akin to grenadine dominates the mouth. The wine is made on property once thought to be "inhospitable" to wine, but with the help of master winemaker Jonathan Maltus and the Oenologue Gilles Pauquet, has become one of the most sought after cult wines of the area. Those unfamiliar with Gilles, need only to Google "cheval blanc" to get an idea of the quality of his work.
Technically the Cheval Blanc 1999 ($$$$$+) was also tasted, but I will intentionally fail to review it, as I would prefer that the super limited quantities of this wine only fall into my hands.

These are just a few of the real gems John and Danielle are bringing in to the restaurant. They have really taken to the idea of keeping the wine list "funky", chock full of hard to find, limited quantity items, sure to impress the most finicky of winos.

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