from ReNew Haven Issue Tree
It’s that time of year again. Thousands of New Haveners will grab bottles of Champagne, head on down to the Green, and brave the frigid temperatures to catch a glimpse of the crystal ball being lowered from the face of the Omni Hotel. Okay, okay, maybe that’s not entirely how it goes around here, but the champagne does seem to be an omnipresent item at most Elm City New Year’s Galas.
Well, okay, most of the time it’s just a bottle of Asti or a California sparkler, but c’mon, it’s all the same isn’t it?
Nope. Not at all.
Sparkling wine goes by many names – Asti, Champagne, Cremant, Cava, Cap Classique, Prosecco, Sekt, Sovetskoye Shampanskoye (Na zdrowie, comrade!), Spumante, and American Sparkling to name a few. All of these wines “sparkle”, and the production of all of these wines is tightly controlled by governing bodies to keep age old traditions; well, all of these wines except those produced by “heathen” Americans. (sarcasm, kind of)
The wine itself sparkles as a result of carbon dioxide escaping the wine. Carbon dioxide results in the wine from either natural fermentation or artificial injection. Artificial injection is used in many low end sparklers and should be avoided at all costs. Unfortunately, nobody goes around printing, “Artificially Injected” on labels of anything, let alone wine, so the only real way you’re going to avoid it entirely, is to stick to sparklers whose “names” are strictly controlled by the European market, i.e. Champagne, Cava, Prosecco, or Cap Classique.
Natural fermentation results from 2 methods – Methode Champenoise / Traditionelle and the Charmat Process. Methode Champenoise / Traditionelle is a long process, requiring multiple in-bottle fermentations and cellar aging both in oak and in bottle. This method results in a sparkling wine that is approachable now, yet will age considerably well in a proper cellar. This method is used in Champagne, France (champenoise) and elsewhere (traditionelle) to produce effervescent wines of quality and stature. The Charmat process, once referred to as Metodo Italiano, is much quicker, allowing a producer to release a new batch every three months in most cases. The Charmat process results in a fresher, crisper wine, but must be enjoyed “young” (soon after bottle release). Most low end producers use the Charmat process, but in some cases, it can yield exceptional wines. Prosecco is an example of a wine developed in the Charmat process.
I’m guessing you’re starting to get the idea that there is a difference when it comes to purchasing bubbly. I’m also guessing that the technical jargon is beginning to bore you. Bear with me, it get’s better...
Champagne is PUNK ROCK.
ed: I was getting tipsy as I wrote this, and I technically never proved that Champagne was punk rock. I definitely brought feminism to the table, however.
Yep, that’s right. Okay, it’s awfully controlled – It can only be made one way, in one place, and with three grapes (Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay), but it has a history rife with pillaging, plundering, random acts of debauchery, feminism, and sharp objects.
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin is the largest selling Champagne in the world. It was founded by Philippe Clicquot-Muiron in the 1770's. Towards the end of the century, his son, then owner of the company, married Nicole-Barbe Ponsardin. After the turn of the century, Philippe passed away and left sole control of the company to his wife. A woman running anything other than a farmhouse was still unheard of at this time, and many of the elites in the wine world were appalled. Many of Madame Clicquot’s employees quit. The company was on the edge of financial ruin.
It is important to note that at this time in history, champagne was served in frosted glass to hide the bubbles which were still viewed as an imperfection. Madame Clicquot used what little money she had left to hire the finest glass makers of the time to come up with the champagne flute, which showcased the bubbles. The trend quickly took over, and the quality of champagne is measured in the appearance of its bubbles to this day. (Ladies: 1, Wealthy French Males: 0)
The next time you’re at a wine shop, look for a bottle of Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin “Yellow Label” non-vintage champagne. Look at the label. Notice the ship’s anchor at the top of the logo. Read on.
ed:
During the Napoleonic Wars, champagne saw another rapid decline in sales. Wealthy Russians were unable to acquire champagne due to trade embargoes enacted by Napoleon’s administration. Madame Clicquot purchased and refurbished an old shipping vessel. She outfitted the ship with smuggled cannons and other weaponry, and hired pirates and mercenaries to man the ship. She personally escorted the ship, which fought it’s way through Napoleon’s naval blockade, to Russia, delivering a quantity large enough to once again save the family business. (Ladies: 2, Wealthy French Males: 0)
Napoleon did not see this as reason to turn the Madame into an enemy of the state – he loved champagne too much. He is quoted as saying, “Champagne! In victory one deserves it; in defeat one needs it.” (Words to live by). His feared cavalry were often treated to champagne at Madame Clicquot’s estate, and to impress the rich, young widow, they would use their sabers to open the bottles. (This process, called sabrage, is still the preferred way of opening a bottle of bubbly). The Clicquot Estate is still run by a woman, and still adheres to the spirit of their founding lady-pirate.
ed:
from rainhasdolar.com
With the Euro exchange rate getting worse everyday and our economy following suit, now may be the last chance many of us have to get a decent bottle of champagne relatively cheaply. Now’s your chance. This New Year’s, grab a bottle of real Champagne, bundle up, and head down to the Green. I’ll be the guy with the eye-patch.
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