Campion

Campion is a winemaker who is something of an enigma. Campion does one grape, and does it well. It is always interesting when, after years in the business, someone dedicates themselves to one type of wine. Campion does Pinot Noir.

The visionary behind Campion is Larry Brooks. Larry worked for Acacia, Chalone, and Echelon (all producers of decent value Pinots), but more importantly, he started out racing bicycles. (inside joke, sorry!)

Campion has several different Pinots available (check their website for a list), but for this horizontal tasting, we tried 2001 Firepeak Vineyard, 2002 Santa Lucia Highlands, and 2004 Central Coast.



Campion Pinot Noir 2004 Central Coast Appellation ($$) has a nose of black cherries and "the woods after a rainstorm". The mouthfeel is smooth and luscious., with a taste of red currants. The wine has a beautiful finish, and may change your life.
I'm going to suggest you stop right here. While the other wines were amazing, this one is by far the cheapest, and unless you have the extra scratch, or a super-refined palate, this is about as good as any of the others. Good luck in your search, as only 56 barrels were produced.
The Appellation, Central Coast is good for Pinot Noir, as the grapes are cooled by winds from the San Luis Obispo Bay. This area is often referred to on labels as Edna Valley, and as such, if you're drinking by the glass, an Edna Valley Pinot is usually a good bet.


As I have said before, there was very little bad Pinot Noir throughout the Pacific Northwest in 2002. If your vineyard felt the breezes of the Pacific Ocean, you probably did alright. Part of the reason for such a good year was that the end of the growing cycle saw very mild weather, keeping the harvest from being forced.
Campion Pinot Noir 2002 Santa Lucia Highlands ($$$) is a perfect example of the benefits of this vintage. This wine is exclusively from their Sarmento vineyard, and turned out to be Brooks' favorite of the year. Only 21 barrels were produced.
The nose reminds me of Cherry Coke meets black pepper and sage. The mouthfeel is big and silky with a taste of blackberries-meets-earth.
The Appellation, Santa Lucia Highlands is cooled by the Monterey Bay, but sheltered by the Salinas hills.




Campion Pinot Noir 2001 Firepeak Vineyard ($$$) is another Edna Valley vineyard with only 9 barrels produced. This one may be tough to find, but can still be special ordered (at least here in Connecticut). The grapes grow in a light volcanic soil and are cooled by a fog that rolls in off the Pacific Ocean. This wine has been referred to as Campion's Reserve -- it's limited production adds to this feeling.
The wine has a nose of pomegranate, cherries, black tea, and wet soil. The body is BIG and voluptuous with a taste of red currant and raspberry with a smooth, fine acidity. This wine could make you ignore every Oregon or Washington State Pinot for the rest of your life.

All of these wines were great, and the nice thing about a good, well-rounded Pinot is that it can be paired with anything, or just enjoyed on its own.