In the spirit of recent posts, I offer you a hot little tip for the New Year...
With the Euro going nowhere but up, most of us may not again have the chance to sample some of the better sparklers Champagne has to offer. Grower Champagnes are essentially smaller production sparklers from within the region that don't necessarily have the provenance or heritage to run with the big dogs. Fortunately, this means they end up being better values. This doesn't make them any less worthy of your attention, however.
For more on Grower Champagnes, watch a video featuring Terry Thiese from the gang over at Thames River.
Wednesday, December 26, 2007
Tuesday, December 25, 2007
The other day I told you to go to the scrib'd page of ReNew Haven. The ecW crew offered up a li'l sumthin sumthin on Champagne for the New Years spirit. Here it is...
from ReNew Haven Issue Tree
It’s that time of year again. Thousands of New Haveners will grab bottles of Champagne, head on down to the Green, and brave the frigid temperatures to catch a glimpse of the crystal ball being lowered from the face of the Omni Hotel. Okay, okay, maybe that’s not entirely how it goes around here, but the champagne does seem to be an omnipresent item at most Elm City New Year’s Galas.
Well, okay, most of the time it’s just a bottle of Asti or a California sparkler, but c’mon, it’s all the same isn’t it?
Nope. Not at all.
Sparkling wine goes by many names – Asti, Champagne, Cremant, Cava, Cap Classique, Prosecco, Sekt, Sovetskoye Shampanskoye (Na zdrowie, comrade!), Spumante, and American Sparkling to name a few. All of these wines “sparkle”, and the production of all of these wines is tightly controlled by governing bodies to keep age old traditions; well, all of these wines except those produced by “heathen” Americans. (sarcasm, kind of)
The wine itself sparkles as a result of carbon dioxide escaping the wine. Carbon dioxide results in the wine from either natural fermentation or artificial injection. Artificial injection is used in many low end sparklers and should be avoided at all costs. Unfortunately, nobody goes around printing, “Artificially Injected” on labels of anything, let alone wine, so the only real way you’re going to avoid it entirely, is to stick to sparklers whose “names” are strictly controlled by the European market, i.e. Champagne, Cava, Prosecco, or Cap Classique.
Natural fermentation results from 2 methods – Methode Champenoise / Traditionelle and the Charmat Process. Methode Champenoise / Traditionelle is a long process, requiring multiple in-bottle fermentations and cellar aging both in oak and in bottle. This method results in a sparkling wine that is approachable now, yet will age considerably well in a proper cellar. This method is used in Champagne, France (champenoise) and elsewhere (traditionelle) to produce effervescent wines of quality and stature. The Charmat process, once referred to as Metodo Italiano, is much quicker, allowing a producer to release a new batch every three months in most cases. The Charmat process results in a fresher, crisper wine, but must be enjoyed “young” (soon after bottle release). Most low end producers use the Charmat process, but in some cases, it can yield exceptional wines. Prosecco is an example of a wine developed in the Charmat process.
I’m guessing you’re starting to get the idea that there is a difference when it comes to purchasing bubbly. I’m also guessing that the technical jargon is beginning to bore you. Bear with me, it get’s better...
Champagne is PUNK ROCK.
ed: I was getting tipsy as I wrote this, and I technically never proved that Champagne was punk rock. I definitely brought feminism to the table, however.
Yep, that’s right. Okay, it’s awfully controlled – It can only be made one way, in one place, and with three grapes (Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay), but it has a history rife with pillaging, plundering, random acts of debauchery, feminism, and sharp objects.
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin is the largest selling Champagne in the world. It was founded by Philippe Clicquot-Muiron in the 1770's. Towards the end of the century, his son, then owner of the company, married Nicole-Barbe Ponsardin. After the turn of the century, Philippe passed away and left sole control of the company to his wife. A woman running anything other than a farmhouse was still unheard of at this time, and many of the elites in the wine world were appalled. Many of Madame Clicquot’s employees quit. The company was on the edge of financial ruin.
It is important to note that at this time in history, champagne was served in frosted glass to hide the bubbles which were still viewed as an imperfection. Madame Clicquot used what little money she had left to hire the finest glass makers of the time to come up with the champagne flute, which showcased the bubbles. The trend quickly took over, and the quality of champagne is measured in the appearance of its bubbles to this day. (Ladies: 1, Wealthy French Males: 0)
The next time you’re at a wine shop, look for a bottle of Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin “Yellow Label” non-vintage champagne. Look at the label. Notice the ship’s anchor at the top of the logo. Read on.
ed:
During the Napoleonic Wars, champagne saw another rapid decline in sales. Wealthy Russians were unable to acquire champagne due to trade embargoes enacted by Napoleon’s administration. Madame Clicquot purchased and refurbished an old shipping vessel. She outfitted the ship with smuggled cannons and other weaponry, and hired pirates and mercenaries to man the ship. She personally escorted the ship, which fought it’s way through Napoleon’s naval blockade, to Russia, delivering a quantity large enough to once again save the family business. (Ladies: 2, Wealthy French Males: 0)
Napoleon did not see this as reason to turn the Madame into an enemy of the state – he loved champagne too much. He is quoted as saying, “Champagne! In victory one deserves it; in defeat one needs it.” (Words to live by). His feared cavalry were often treated to champagne at Madame Clicquot’s estate, and to impress the rich, young widow, they would use their sabers to open the bottles. (This process, called sabrage, is still the preferred way of opening a bottle of bubbly). The Clicquot Estate is still run by a woman, and still adheres to the spirit of their founding lady-pirate.
ed:
from rainhasdolar.com
With the Euro exchange rate getting worse everyday and our economy following suit, now may be the last chance many of us have to get a decent bottle of champagne relatively cheaply. Now’s your chance. This New Year’s, grab a bottle of real Champagne, bundle up, and head down to the Green. I’ll be the guy with the eye-patch.
from ReNew Haven Issue Tree
It’s that time of year again. Thousands of New Haveners will grab bottles of Champagne, head on down to the Green, and brave the frigid temperatures to catch a glimpse of the crystal ball being lowered from the face of the Omni Hotel. Okay, okay, maybe that’s not entirely how it goes around here, but the champagne does seem to be an omnipresent item at most Elm City New Year’s Galas.
Well, okay, most of the time it’s just a bottle of Asti or a California sparkler, but c’mon, it’s all the same isn’t it?
Nope. Not at all.
Sparkling wine goes by many names – Asti, Champagne, Cremant, Cava, Cap Classique, Prosecco, Sekt, Sovetskoye Shampanskoye (Na zdrowie, comrade!), Spumante, and American Sparkling to name a few. All of these wines “sparkle”, and the production of all of these wines is tightly controlled by governing bodies to keep age old traditions; well, all of these wines except those produced by “heathen” Americans. (sarcasm, kind of)
The wine itself sparkles as a result of carbon dioxide escaping the wine. Carbon dioxide results in the wine from either natural fermentation or artificial injection. Artificial injection is used in many low end sparklers and should be avoided at all costs. Unfortunately, nobody goes around printing, “Artificially Injected” on labels of anything, let alone wine, so the only real way you’re going to avoid it entirely, is to stick to sparklers whose “names” are strictly controlled by the European market, i.e. Champagne, Cava, Prosecco, or Cap Classique.
Natural fermentation results from 2 methods – Methode Champenoise / Traditionelle and the Charmat Process. Methode Champenoise / Traditionelle is a long process, requiring multiple in-bottle fermentations and cellar aging both in oak and in bottle. This method results in a sparkling wine that is approachable now, yet will age considerably well in a proper cellar. This method is used in Champagne, France (champenoise) and elsewhere (traditionelle) to produce effervescent wines of quality and stature. The Charmat process, once referred to as Metodo Italiano, is much quicker, allowing a producer to release a new batch every three months in most cases. The Charmat process results in a fresher, crisper wine, but must be enjoyed “young” (soon after bottle release). Most low end producers use the Charmat process, but in some cases, it can yield exceptional wines. Prosecco is an example of a wine developed in the Charmat process.
I’m guessing you’re starting to get the idea that there is a difference when it comes to purchasing bubbly. I’m also guessing that the technical jargon is beginning to bore you. Bear with me, it get’s better...
Champagne is PUNK ROCK.
ed: I was getting tipsy as I wrote this, and I technically never proved that Champagne was punk rock. I definitely brought feminism to the table, however.
Yep, that’s right. Okay, it’s awfully controlled – It can only be made one way, in one place, and with three grapes (Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay), but it has a history rife with pillaging, plundering, random acts of debauchery, feminism, and sharp objects.
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin is the largest selling Champagne in the world. It was founded by Philippe Clicquot-Muiron in the 1770's. Towards the end of the century, his son, then owner of the company, married Nicole-Barbe Ponsardin. After the turn of the century, Philippe passed away and left sole control of the company to his wife. A woman running anything other than a farmhouse was still unheard of at this time, and many of the elites in the wine world were appalled. Many of Madame Clicquot’s employees quit. The company was on the edge of financial ruin.
It is important to note that at this time in history, champagne was served in frosted glass to hide the bubbles which were still viewed as an imperfection. Madame Clicquot used what little money she had left to hire the finest glass makers of the time to come up with the champagne flute, which showcased the bubbles. The trend quickly took over, and the quality of champagne is measured in the appearance of its bubbles to this day. (Ladies: 1, Wealthy French Males: 0)
The next time you’re at a wine shop, look for a bottle of Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin “Yellow Label” non-vintage champagne. Look at the label. Notice the ship’s anchor at the top of the logo. Read on.
ed:
During the Napoleonic Wars, champagne saw another rapid decline in sales. Wealthy Russians were unable to acquire champagne due to trade embargoes enacted by Napoleon’s administration. Madame Clicquot purchased and refurbished an old shipping vessel. She outfitted the ship with smuggled cannons and other weaponry, and hired pirates and mercenaries to man the ship. She personally escorted the ship, which fought it’s way through Napoleon’s naval blockade, to Russia, delivering a quantity large enough to once again save the family business. (Ladies: 2, Wealthy French Males: 0)
Napoleon did not see this as reason to turn the Madame into an enemy of the state – he loved champagne too much. He is quoted as saying, “Champagne! In victory one deserves it; in defeat one needs it.” (Words to live by). His feared cavalry were often treated to champagne at Madame Clicquot’s estate, and to impress the rich, young widow, they would use their sabers to open the bottles. (This process, called sabrage, is still the preferred way of opening a bottle of bubbly). The Clicquot Estate is still run by a woman, and still adheres to the spirit of their founding lady-pirate.
ed:
from rainhasdolar.com
With the Euro exchange rate getting worse everyday and our economy following suit, now may be the last chance many of us have to get a decent bottle of champagne relatively cheaply. Now’s your chance. This New Year’s, grab a bottle of real Champagne, bundle up, and head down to the Green. I’ll be the guy with the eye-patch.
Saturday, December 22, 2007
ReNew Haven
Head over to the Scrib'd page for ReNew Haven and check out the article on Champagne from the ecW crew.
ReNew Haven is a local 'zine looking to bring an old school type of unity to New Haven. Wow! I just sounded like a reformed hardcore kid. Oh, wait -- I am a reformed hardcore kid.
Wine to drink while reading 'zines produced by reformed punk rockers and hardcore kids?
Four Vines "Anarchy" 2005 ($$$) is a blend of syrah, old vine zinfandel, and mourvedre. Almost a Rhone-esque blend, this wine has rich fruit and a tremendous mouthfeel. Quite "over-the-top" with a punk rawk bottle to boot.
ReNew Haven is a local 'zine looking to bring an old school type of unity to New Haven. Wow! I just sounded like a reformed hardcore kid. Oh, wait -- I am a reformed hardcore kid.
Wine to drink while reading 'zines produced by reformed punk rockers and hardcore kids?
Four Vines "Anarchy" 2005 ($$$) is a blend of syrah, old vine zinfandel, and mourvedre. Almost a Rhone-esque blend, this wine has rich fruit and a tremendous mouthfeel. Quite "over-the-top" with a punk rawk bottle to boot.
Friday, December 21, 2007
Nicholas Day on Castaway
Mark Oppenheimer and Lee Faulkner of the New Haven Independent sit with local journalist Nicholas Day and talk about wine and the snobbery of the social wine world. It's the latest in their "Castaway" podcast series.
It's an interesting interview, that gets into some fun subjects: counterfeit wines, "viticultural candid camera", working in the industry, and wine "experts".
It's an interesting interview, that gets into some fun subjects: counterfeit wines, "viticultural candid camera", working in the industry, and wine "experts".
Sunday, December 16, 2007
Top Wines of the Year (according to me)
Elm City Wino’s Top Wines of the Year...
So we’re about to wrap up another year. For me, this one has afforded me many great wine tasting opportunities for which I am grateful. It’s tough to try to narrow down the year into just a few favorites. I could easily list 20 or so wines that I was really into this year, but that list would more than likely be limited to mid-dollar, small production reds, as these tend to be my go-to wines. That would lead to a boring list.
I’ve decided to break down my year-end summary of wines to 20 wines. Ten will be under $15 and ten will be over $15 with each list being divided equally into reds and whites.
As with anything, wine is subjective, and this list in no means implies that you will love every wine on it. It just means I did.
Cheers!
-Matt Uva
...the Reds
under $15
5. Dominio de Eguren Protocolo
I mentioned this wine back in October. I still feel this wine is an excellent buy.
4. Nine Mile Road Cabernet Sauvignon
This Aussie red from American Estates has also been mentioned before.
3. Enrique Foster "Ique" Malbec
This wine is made without any oak, which makes it the perfect wine for discovering the Malbec grape in a pure form. It is a beautiful ruby-red color with a nose of red fruit and earth. Once in the mouth, the wine is slightly young, but will open up nicely with a short amount of time in the glass. The flavors of strawberry, raspberry, and licorice are complemented by a body that is slightly more than medium. Many of New Haven's restaurants have had an increase in their sales of Malbec, and in turn have begun to add more of them to their wine lists. The "Ique" Malbec is a great introduction to this versatile grape.
2. Domaine de la Solitude Cotes du Rhone
Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, and Mourvedre come together to make this mellow example of Cotes du Rhone. Dark purple fruits dominate the nose, with some lighter hints of cooking spices. The wine is medium bodied with fruit and mineral flavors. Middle of the road acidity and tannin structure mean this wine is fine on its own or paired with lighter fare.
1. Luzon 2005
My under $15 Red of the Year has been mentioned before. It received 87 points from the Wine Spectator. Just buy it already.
over $15
5. Bodegas Juan Gil
This wine just breaks the $15 mark. Go back to April and read about it.
4. Palari Faro 2003
Three grapes, indigenous to Sicily, small production, and a kick-ass wine. Read about it here.
3. Cenit 2003/2004
I'm giving it to both vintages here. I've mentioned them before. Most wine snobs would be against the idea of combining vintages. Then again, most wine snobs are so into ratings that they'll only buy a wine that has been given a high score. The problem is, by the time a wine gets scored well, it's completely out of stock in every store and warehouse, and no longer affordable at most restaurants.
It's a good idea to check a wine's provenance, or vintage history, when making a purchase. Were previous vintages scored well? Does the winemaker consistently make a good product? Using this concept, you could purchase the next vintage of Cenit when it comes out and feel pretty confident about its quality.
2. Clos de los Siete
Okay, this wine is pretty much mentioned all the time around these parts.
1. Ken Wright Cellars Elton Vineyard 2006
The Pacific Northwest produces two different pinots. There is the mellow Burgundian pinot, and the purely American fruit monster. The Ken Wright Cellars produces one of the finest monsters available. The wine smells and tastes of candied cherries with a perfectly balanced mouthfeel. This wine also displays the potential for some long-term aging. This is a super limited quantity wine, with fewer than 150 cases produced. Apparently the majority of Connecticut's allocation has made its way to one restaurant, Ferrante in Stamford.
...the Whites
note: I don't drink nearly enough white wine, so my choices from this year's tasting notes were limited
under $15
5. Mionetto N/V Prosecco Brut
The simplest way to look at prosecco is to consider it Italy's answer to Champagne. Technically, this would be completely inappropriate as you would be comparing apples and oranges, but it is sparkly. This effervescent wine from Sergio Mionetto is one of the better examples of prosecco at this price point. There is a nice balance of fruit and tartness with tight bubbles and a floral aroma.
4. Lindeman's 2006 South Africa Chardonnay
This wine was mentioned before.
3. St. Ludwig Bernkasteler Kurfurstlay Riesling Spatlese 2006
Yup, that one's a mouthful. Go here to learn how to decipher German wine labels.
The wine offers a nose of cold weather fruits, gravel, and cedar with flavors of peach and apple in a less dry white.
2. Castelo do Papa Godello
This amazing white hails from Valdeorras in the Northwest of Spain, where the rebellious nature of the people spills over into their winemaking. Using a grape, godello, normally reserved for blending, Castelo do Papa has created a wine with fresh aromas of fruits, mineral, dried herbs, key lime, and even ocean breeze. Melon, pineapple, and mineral flavors abound, while refined tannins lead the way for a cool, long finish.
1. Inama Soave Classico
Lemongrass and wildflowers run the bright, fruity nose, while light citrus and mineral occupy the tongue. The finish is crisp and lemony. The wine is aged in stainless steel, allowing the garganega grape to show its full potential.
over $15
5. 2005 Ferrari Carano Fume Blanc
Go back to May to read about it. It's on the wine list at Portofino.
4. Larochette Macon Blanc
Read about it here.
3. Vina Sila Naia Des
Read about it here.
2. Argyle "Nuthouse" Chardonnay
I was really impressed by Arglyle "Nuthouse" Pinot Noir, so much so that it inspired me to try this wine. The nose offers peach, hazelnut, and vanilla, while the mouth is creamy peach. The aftertaste is long and spicy.
1. JJ Prum Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2005
Yup another long one. Go back to German Wine Estates to decipher the label.
This one made Wine Spectator's Top 100 at 14th. 'Nuff said. It smells like key lime pie and peach cobbler with flavors of red and green apples. The aftertaste is dominated by the apple with a hint of the key lime.
There's almost zero chance you're going to find this wine. Go with my provenance theory from earlier and buy the next vintage when it's available.
And Elm City Wino's Wine of the Year is...
Bruno Colin Premier Cru Les Gravieres Santenay 2004 ($$$-$$$$)
This pinot noir from Burgundy is a prime example of what a cooler climate can do to a grape. This wine even tastes like cool weather.
It has a deep garnet color and a nose of black cherry (think Cherry Coke) and wildflowers, followed by a fruit forward, medium to heavy bodied wine. The aftertaste was super smooth and full of dark fruit. This is the only wine that has ever given me goosebumps.
So we’re about to wrap up another year. For me, this one has afforded me many great wine tasting opportunities for which I am grateful. It’s tough to try to narrow down the year into just a few favorites. I could easily list 20 or so wines that I was really into this year, but that list would more than likely be limited to mid-dollar, small production reds, as these tend to be my go-to wines. That would lead to a boring list.
I’ve decided to break down my year-end summary of wines to 20 wines. Ten will be under $15 and ten will be over $15 with each list being divided equally into reds and whites.
As with anything, wine is subjective, and this list in no means implies that you will love every wine on it. It just means I did.
Cheers!
-Matt Uva
...the Reds
under $15
5. Dominio de Eguren Protocolo
I mentioned this wine back in October. I still feel this wine is an excellent buy.
4. Nine Mile Road Cabernet Sauvignon
This Aussie red from American Estates has also been mentioned before.
3. Enrique Foster "Ique" Malbec
This wine is made without any oak, which makes it the perfect wine for discovering the Malbec grape in a pure form. It is a beautiful ruby-red color with a nose of red fruit and earth. Once in the mouth, the wine is slightly young, but will open up nicely with a short amount of time in the glass. The flavors of strawberry, raspberry, and licorice are complemented by a body that is slightly more than medium. Many of New Haven's restaurants have had an increase in their sales of Malbec, and in turn have begun to add more of them to their wine lists. The "Ique" Malbec is a great introduction to this versatile grape.
2. Domaine de la Solitude Cotes du Rhone
Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, and Mourvedre come together to make this mellow example of Cotes du Rhone. Dark purple fruits dominate the nose, with some lighter hints of cooking spices. The wine is medium bodied with fruit and mineral flavors. Middle of the road acidity and tannin structure mean this wine is fine on its own or paired with lighter fare.
1. Luzon 2005
My under $15 Red of the Year has been mentioned before. It received 87 points from the Wine Spectator. Just buy it already.
over $15
5. Bodegas Juan Gil
This wine just breaks the $15 mark. Go back to April and read about it.
4. Palari Faro 2003
Three grapes, indigenous to Sicily, small production, and a kick-ass wine. Read about it here.
3. Cenit 2003/2004
I'm giving it to both vintages here. I've mentioned them before. Most wine snobs would be against the idea of combining vintages. Then again, most wine snobs are so into ratings that they'll only buy a wine that has been given a high score. The problem is, by the time a wine gets scored well, it's completely out of stock in every store and warehouse, and no longer affordable at most restaurants.
It's a good idea to check a wine's provenance, or vintage history, when making a purchase. Were previous vintages scored well? Does the winemaker consistently make a good product? Using this concept, you could purchase the next vintage of Cenit when it comes out and feel pretty confident about its quality.
2. Clos de los Siete
Okay, this wine is pretty much mentioned all the time around these parts.
1. Ken Wright Cellars Elton Vineyard 2006
The Pacific Northwest produces two different pinots. There is the mellow Burgundian pinot, and the purely American fruit monster. The Ken Wright Cellars produces one of the finest monsters available. The wine smells and tastes of candied cherries with a perfectly balanced mouthfeel. This wine also displays the potential for some long-term aging. This is a super limited quantity wine, with fewer than 150 cases produced. Apparently the majority of Connecticut's allocation has made its way to one restaurant, Ferrante in Stamford.
...the Whites
note: I don't drink nearly enough white wine, so my choices from this year's tasting notes were limited
under $15
5. Mionetto N/V Prosecco Brut
The simplest way to look at prosecco is to consider it Italy's answer to Champagne. Technically, this would be completely inappropriate as you would be comparing apples and oranges, but it is sparkly. This effervescent wine from Sergio Mionetto is one of the better examples of prosecco at this price point. There is a nice balance of fruit and tartness with tight bubbles and a floral aroma.
4. Lindeman's 2006 South Africa Chardonnay
This wine was mentioned before.
3. St. Ludwig Bernkasteler Kurfurstlay Riesling Spatlese 2006
Yup, that one's a mouthful. Go here to learn how to decipher German wine labels.
The wine offers a nose of cold weather fruits, gravel, and cedar with flavors of peach and apple in a less dry white.
2. Castelo do Papa Godello
This amazing white hails from Valdeorras in the Northwest of Spain, where the rebellious nature of the people spills over into their winemaking. Using a grape, godello, normally reserved for blending, Castelo do Papa has created a wine with fresh aromas of fruits, mineral, dried herbs, key lime, and even ocean breeze. Melon, pineapple, and mineral flavors abound, while refined tannins lead the way for a cool, long finish.
1. Inama Soave Classico
Lemongrass and wildflowers run the bright, fruity nose, while light citrus and mineral occupy the tongue. The finish is crisp and lemony. The wine is aged in stainless steel, allowing the garganega grape to show its full potential.
over $15
5. 2005 Ferrari Carano Fume Blanc
Go back to May to read about it. It's on the wine list at Portofino.
4. Larochette Macon Blanc
Read about it here.
3. Vina Sila Naia Des
Read about it here.
2. Argyle "Nuthouse" Chardonnay
I was really impressed by Arglyle "Nuthouse" Pinot Noir, so much so that it inspired me to try this wine. The nose offers peach, hazelnut, and vanilla, while the mouth is creamy peach. The aftertaste is long and spicy.
1. JJ Prum Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2005
Yup another long one. Go back to German Wine Estates to decipher the label.
This one made Wine Spectator's Top 100 at 14th. 'Nuff said. It smells like key lime pie and peach cobbler with flavors of red and green apples. The aftertaste is dominated by the apple with a hint of the key lime.
There's almost zero chance you're going to find this wine. Go with my provenance theory from earlier and buy the next vintage when it's available.
And Elm City Wino's Wine of the Year is...
Bruno Colin Premier Cru Les Gravieres Santenay 2004 ($$$-$$$$)
This pinot noir from Burgundy is a prime example of what a cooler climate can do to a grape. This wine even tastes like cool weather.
It has a deep garnet color and a nose of black cherry (think Cherry Coke) and wildflowers, followed by a fruit forward, medium to heavy bodied wine. The aftertaste was super smooth and full of dark fruit. This is the only wine that has ever given me goosebumps.
Thursday, December 13, 2007
The roof, the roof, the roof is on fire...
As many of you already know, almost an entire block in downtown New Haven burned down yesterday...
photo "borrowed" from New Haven Independent
So, what wines go well withinsurance accidental fires???
2001 Campion Firepeak Vineyard Pinot Noir ($$$) has been mentioned before. Besides having the word, "fire" in its name, it's also grown in a light volcanic soil. Everybody knows volcanoes are H O T !
Garnacha de Fuego ($) is a great wine at a great price. This wine from Calatayud in Spain is picked from 65 year old vines grown in a terribly hot climate. This grenache offers a nose of raspberry, black pepper, and mint followed by a silky smooth black cherry, plum, and cooking spice palate. The acidity and tannins are in the medium range, meaning this wine will do well on it's own or with a variety of foods, although to keep with our theme, I recommend barbeque. This wine is another Jorge Ordonez gem.
Fire! Fire!!
Somebody started the fire, and there's a good chance they'll get caught. When they end up in the slammer, toast them with Big House "Slammer" Syrah ($). The Big House line is usually mediocre at best. This one is the star of their lineup -- a good DAILY DRINKER with a nose of smoky berry and ash (how appropriate!) followed by berries and black pepper. This wine won't change your life by any means, but if you're drinking at an arson fire, this may be your best bet. The stelvin twist-off cap will ensure a rapid escape with minimal spillage.
Grab a highball glass, some vodka, OJ, and rum and fix yourself a Brass Monkey in honor of the 3 week old nightclub that went down in the fire. For full effect, drink while listening to the Beastie Boys song of the same name.
After all of these, head over to the Bru Rm at Bar and grab one of Jeff Browning's beers. Stare at the brewing equipment that survived its own fire.
photo "borrowed" from New Haven Independent
So, what wines go well with
2001 Campion Firepeak Vineyard Pinot Noir ($$$) has been mentioned before. Besides having the word, "fire" in its name, it's also grown in a light volcanic soil. Everybody knows volcanoes are H O T !
Garnacha de Fuego ($) is a great wine at a great price. This wine from Calatayud in Spain is picked from 65 year old vines grown in a terribly hot climate. This grenache offers a nose of raspberry, black pepper, and mint followed by a silky smooth black cherry, plum, and cooking spice palate. The acidity and tannins are in the medium range, meaning this wine will do well on it's own or with a variety of foods, although to keep with our theme, I recommend barbeque. This wine is another Jorge Ordonez gem.
Fire! Fire!!
Somebody started the fire, and there's a good chance they'll get caught. When they end up in the slammer, toast them with Big House "Slammer" Syrah ($). The Big House line is usually mediocre at best. This one is the star of their lineup -- a good DAILY DRINKER with a nose of smoky berry and ash (how appropriate!) followed by berries and black pepper. This wine won't change your life by any means, but if you're drinking at an arson fire, this may be your best bet. The stelvin twist-off cap will ensure a rapid escape with minimal spillage.
Grab a highball glass, some vodka, OJ, and rum and fix yourself a Brass Monkey in honor of the 3 week old nightclub that went down in the fire. For full effect, drink while listening to the Beastie Boys song of the same name.
After all of these, head over to the Bru Rm at Bar and grab one of Jeff Browning's beers. Stare at the brewing equipment that survived its own fire.
Tuesday, December 4, 2007
Changes to come at 116
Besides the large white birch trees in wooden orbs out front, 116 Crown has some changes in store. The ecWino crew was invited to a tasting of some new wines that may make it onto their wine list, and I have to say, these get interesting.
Some highlights....
Palari "Faro" ($$$-$$$$) is a MUST BUY. This wine, a blend of Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Nocera -- what! wait! what?! Yup, nobody has ever heard of these grapes! Winemaker Salvatore Geraci is solely responsible for saving these three indigenous grapes from Sicily, near Messina. Nobody else uses these grapes anymore. Intrigued? Good. Keep reading --
The DOC (Vino a Denominazione di Origine Controllata -- think, "appellation") is the smallest in Sicily, if not the smallest in the world. At 6 acres it is roughly the size of one half of the New Haven Green. The grapes grow precariously on tall cliffs, forcing the wine to be handpicked. The wine is aged a year in oak and a year in bottle before being released to the public. As you can probably guess, this wine is super limited in production, so get it while you can. Yes, it's a little pricey, but it's definitely worth the splurge -- this is a once in a lifetime event; you'd spend $60 to parachute from Mt. Rushmore if you could. "Faro" means "lighthouse", and is named for the lighthouse on the same property that overlooks the Straits of Messina. Production is usually around 7,000 bottles. For the entire planet.
The wine itself is practically a topographical map of its terroir. A nose of blueberries is complimented by more complex notes, ranging the gamut of deep red fruits, hearty topsoil, and black tea. It is a pleasantly balanced wine, with just a hint of over-the-top alcohol, sure to please even the most hardcore California drinker, yet the wine still has that mellow, relaxed quality found in the best of Italian wines. The finish brings the drinker back to the berries and black tea for a brief moment.
Fans of old world whites will enjoy the Larochette Macon Blanc ($$$). This white Burgundy sees almost zero oak, instead relying on just the grape to bring you an impressive, yet mild white. Graphite, mineral, and citrus flavors dominate this wine, with a smooth acidity, and pleasant aftertaste. This wine also falls under my MUST BUY classification, with the stipulation that the drinker(s) be a fan of Old World European whites -- This will not impress a California Chard drinker.
Vina Sila Naia Des ($$-$$$) can already be found at Barcelona, so even if the folks at 116 don't pick this up, it can still be had. For fans of white wine, New or Old World, this is a MUST BUY. This Verdejo offers a nose of orange blossom and vanilla, with toasty oak. Pear and pinenuts dominate the taste, with a nice balance and aftertaste brought on by the oak. The regular Naia Verdejo ($-$$) is aged exclusively in stainless, and while still an exciting wine for the price, lacks the character that oak gives the Naia Des. This wine will complement most of the foods found on 116's small plate menu, or will do fine on its own.
Domaine du Closel ($$) is basically a chenin blanc that has been affected by botrytis. Botrytis, or noble rot is a fungus that attaches to the skin of the grape, but does not pierce it. Seriously, before you go any further, go to the Wikipedia entry for Botrytis, read all about it, and get un-grossed out. This wine was one of the most talked about wines at the tasting. It was suh-weet, bordering on dessert wine, and is a MUST TRY (yes, I just invented a new classification).
Polaner Selections and Louis/Dressner have a much better explanation of this wine than I could ever give you here.
Chateau Teyssier 2005 (NA) should serve as an introduction to the 2005 Bordeaux vintage. The wine was described by sommelier, Eoin Connors, as "what wine should taste like", and gave a lasting impression to all in attendance. Even the most hardcore of California wine fans were taken aback by this wine. Blackberries and wildflowers occupy the nose, while something akin to grenadine dominates the mouth. The wine is made on property once thought to be "inhospitable" to wine, but with the help of master winemaker Jonathan Maltus and the Oenologue Gilles Pauquet, has become one of the most sought after cult wines of the area. Those unfamiliar with Gilles, need only to Google "cheval blanc" to get an idea of the quality of his work.
Technically the Cheval Blanc 1999 ($$$$$+) was also tasted, but I will intentionally fail to review it, as I would prefer that the super limited quantities of this wine only fall into my hands.
These are just a few of the real gems John and Danielle are bringing in to the restaurant. They have really taken to the idea of keeping the wine list "funky", chock full of hard to find, limited quantity items, sure to impress the most finicky of winos.
Some highlights....
Palari "Faro" ($$$-$$$$) is a MUST BUY. This wine, a blend of Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Nocera -- what! wait! what?! Yup, nobody has ever heard of these grapes! Winemaker Salvatore Geraci is solely responsible for saving these three indigenous grapes from Sicily, near Messina. Nobody else uses these grapes anymore. Intrigued? Good. Keep reading --
The DOC (Vino a Denominazione di Origine Controllata -- think, "appellation") is the smallest in Sicily, if not the smallest in the world. At 6 acres it is roughly the size of one half of the New Haven Green. The grapes grow precariously on tall cliffs, forcing the wine to be handpicked. The wine is aged a year in oak and a year in bottle before being released to the public. As you can probably guess, this wine is super limited in production, so get it while you can. Yes, it's a little pricey, but it's definitely worth the splurge -- this is a once in a lifetime event; you'd spend $60 to parachute from Mt. Rushmore if you could. "Faro" means "lighthouse", and is named for the lighthouse on the same property that overlooks the Straits of Messina. Production is usually around 7,000 bottles. For the entire planet.
The wine itself is practically a topographical map of its terroir. A nose of blueberries is complimented by more complex notes, ranging the gamut of deep red fruits, hearty topsoil, and black tea. It is a pleasantly balanced wine, with just a hint of over-the-top alcohol, sure to please even the most hardcore California drinker, yet the wine still has that mellow, relaxed quality found in the best of Italian wines. The finish brings the drinker back to the berries and black tea for a brief moment.
Fans of old world whites will enjoy the Larochette Macon Blanc ($$$). This white Burgundy sees almost zero oak, instead relying on just the grape to bring you an impressive, yet mild white. Graphite, mineral, and citrus flavors dominate this wine, with a smooth acidity, and pleasant aftertaste. This wine also falls under my MUST BUY classification, with the stipulation that the drinker(s) be a fan of Old World European whites -- This will not impress a California Chard drinker.
Vina Sila Naia Des ($$-$$$) can already be found at Barcelona, so even if the folks at 116 don't pick this up, it can still be had. For fans of white wine, New or Old World, this is a MUST BUY. This Verdejo offers a nose of orange blossom and vanilla, with toasty oak. Pear and pinenuts dominate the taste, with a nice balance and aftertaste brought on by the oak. The regular Naia Verdejo ($-$$) is aged exclusively in stainless, and while still an exciting wine for the price, lacks the character that oak gives the Naia Des. This wine will complement most of the foods found on 116's small plate menu, or will do fine on its own.
Domaine du Closel ($$) is basically a chenin blanc that has been affected by botrytis. Botrytis, or noble rot is a fungus that attaches to the skin of the grape, but does not pierce it. Seriously, before you go any further, go to the Wikipedia entry for Botrytis, read all about it, and get un-grossed out. This wine was one of the most talked about wines at the tasting. It was suh-weet, bordering on dessert wine, and is a MUST TRY (yes, I just invented a new classification).
Polaner Selections and Louis/Dressner have a much better explanation of this wine than I could ever give you here.
Chateau Teyssier 2005 (NA) should serve as an introduction to the 2005 Bordeaux vintage. The wine was described by sommelier, Eoin Connors, as "what wine should taste like", and gave a lasting impression to all in attendance. Even the most hardcore of California wine fans were taken aback by this wine. Blackberries and wildflowers occupy the nose, while something akin to grenadine dominates the mouth. The wine is made on property once thought to be "inhospitable" to wine, but with the help of master winemaker Jonathan Maltus and the Oenologue Gilles Pauquet, has become one of the most sought after cult wines of the area. Those unfamiliar with Gilles, need only to Google "cheval blanc" to get an idea of the quality of his work.
Technically the Cheval Blanc 1999 ($$$$$+) was also tasted, but I will intentionally fail to review it, as I would prefer that the super limited quantities of this wine only fall into my hands.
These are just a few of the real gems John and Danielle are bringing in to the restaurant. They have really taken to the idea of keeping the wine list "funky", chock full of hard to find, limited quantity items, sure to impress the most finicky of winos.
The New Haven Life
I hit 116 Crown for a little while tonight, and while I was there I met someone from a new New Haven Info site: The New Haven Life (thenewhavenlife.com). He showed me a bit of the site, and referred to it as, "MySpace for New Haven businesses". It allows a business to set up "profiles" and keep us all up to date on events happening in the New Haven foodie scene. The events calendar is pretty neat, offering tons of ideas for a night out.
The nice thing about the site is that it's not a part of the City of New Haven's spin machine, instead offering ideas that don;t come from political donors with deep pockets.
Great job, great site, great idea.
The nice thing about the site is that it's not a part of the City of New Haven's spin machine, instead offering ideas that don;t come from political donors with deep pockets.
Great job, great site, great idea.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
