Grower Champagne

In the spirit of recent posts, I offer you a hot little tip for the New Year...
With the Euro going nowhere but up, most of us may not again have the chance to sample some of the better sparklers Champagne has to offer. Grower Champagnes are essentially smaller production sparklers from within the region that don't necessarily have the provenance or heritage to run with the big dogs. Fortunately, this means they end up being better values. This doesn't make them any less worthy of your attention, however.
For more on Grower Champagnes, watch a video featuring Terry Thiese from the gang over at Thames River.

The other day I told you to go to the scrib'd page of ReNew Haven. The ecW crew offered up a li'l sumthin sumthin on Champagne for the New Years spirit. Here it is...


from ReNew Haven Issue Tree
It’s that time of year again. Thousands of New Haveners will grab bottles of Champagne, head on down to the Green, and brave the frigid temperatures to catch a glimpse of the crystal ball being lowered from the face of the Omni Hotel. Okay, okay, maybe that’s not entirely how it goes around here, but the champagne does seem to be an omnipresent item at most Elm City New Year’s Galas.
Well, okay, most of the time it’s just a bottle of Asti or a California sparkler, but c’mon, it’s all the same isn’t it?

Nope. Not at all.

Sparkling wine goes by many names – Asti, Champagne, Cremant, Cava, Cap Classique, Prosecco, Sekt, Sovetskoye Shampanskoye (Na zdrowie, comrade!), Spumante, and American Sparkling to name a few. All of these wines “sparkle”, and the production of all of these wines is tightly controlled by governing bodies to keep age old traditions; well, all of these wines except those produced by “heathen” Americans. (sarcasm, kind of)
The wine itself sparkles as a result of carbon dioxide escaping the wine. Carbon dioxide results in the wine from either natural fermentation or artificial injection. Artificial injection is used in many low end sparklers and should be avoided at all costs. Unfortunately, nobody goes around printing, “Artificially Injected” on labels of anything, let alone wine, so the only real way you’re going to avoid it entirely, is to stick to sparklers whose “names” are strictly controlled by the European market, i.e. Champagne, Cava, Prosecco, or Cap Classique.
Natural fermentation results from 2 methods – Methode Champenoise / Traditionelle and the Charmat Process. Methode Champenoise / Traditionelle is a long process, requiring multiple in-bottle fermentations and cellar aging both in oak and in bottle. This method results in a sparkling wine that is approachable now, yet will age considerably well in a proper cellar. This method is used in Champagne, France (champenoise) and elsewhere (traditionelle) to produce effervescent wines of quality and stature. The Charmat process, once referred to as Metodo Italiano, is much quicker, allowing a producer to release a new batch every three months in most cases. The Charmat process results in a fresher, crisper wine, but must be enjoyed “young” (soon after bottle release). Most low end producers use the Charmat process, but in some cases, it can yield exceptional wines. Prosecco is an example of a wine developed in the Charmat process.

I’m guessing you’re starting to get the idea that there is a difference when it comes to purchasing bubbly. I’m also guessing that the technical jargon is beginning to bore you. Bear with me, it get’s better...

Champagne is PUNK ROCK.
ed: I was getting tipsy as I wrote this, and I technically never proved that Champagne was punk rock. I definitely brought feminism to the table, however.
Yep, that’s right. Okay, it’s awfully controlled – It can only be made one way, in one place, and with three grapes (Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay), but it has a history rife with pillaging, plundering, random acts of debauchery, feminism, and sharp objects.
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin is the largest selling Champagne in the world. It was founded by Philippe Clicquot-Muiron in the 1770's. Towards the end of the century, his son, then owner of the company, married Nicole-Barbe Ponsardin. After the turn of the century, Philippe passed away and left sole control of the company to his wife. A woman running anything other than a farmhouse was still unheard of at this time, and many of the elites in the wine world were appalled. Many of Madame Clicquot’s employees quit. The company was on the edge of financial ruin.
It is important to note that at this time in history, champagne was served in frosted glass to hide the bubbles which were still viewed as an imperfection. Madame Clicquot used what little money she had left to hire the finest glass makers of the time to come up with the champagne flute, which showcased the bubbles. The trend quickly took over, and the quality of champagne is measured in the appearance of its bubbles to this day. (Ladies: 1, Wealthy French Males: 0)
The next time you’re at a wine shop, look for a bottle of Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin “Yellow Label” non-vintage champagne. Look at the label. Notice the ship’s anchor at the top of the logo. Read on.
ed:



During the Napoleonic Wars, champagne saw another rapid decline in sales. Wealthy Russians were unable to acquire champagne due to trade embargoes enacted by Napoleon’s administration. Madame Clicquot purchased and refurbished an old shipping vessel. She outfitted the ship with smuggled cannons and other weaponry, and hired pirates and mercenaries to man the ship. She personally escorted the ship, which fought it’s way through Napoleon’s naval blockade, to Russia, delivering a quantity large enough to once again save the family business. (Ladies: 2, Wealthy French Males: 0)
Napoleon did not see this as reason to turn the Madame into an enemy of the state – he loved champagne too much. He is quoted as saying, “Champagne! In victory one deserves it; in defeat one needs it.” (Words to live by). His feared cavalry were often treated to champagne at Madame Clicquot’s estate, and to impress the rich, young widow, they would use their sabers to open the bottles. (This process, called sabrage, is still the preferred way of opening a bottle of bubbly). The Clicquot Estate is still run by a woman, and still adheres to the spirit of their founding lady-pirate.
ed:

from rainhasdolar.com



With the Euro exchange rate getting worse everyday and our economy following suit, now may be the last chance many of us have to get a decent bottle of champagne relatively cheaply. Now’s your chance. This New Year’s, grab a bottle of real Champagne, bundle up, and head down to the Green. I’ll be the guy with the eye-patch.

ReNew Haven

Head over to the Scrib'd page for ReNew Haven and check out the article on Champagne from the ecW crew.
ReNew Haven is a local 'zine looking to bring an old school type of unity to New Haven. Wow! I just sounded like a reformed hardcore kid. Oh, wait -- I am a reformed hardcore kid.





Wine to drink while reading 'zines produced by reformed punk rockers and hardcore kids?


Four Vines "Anarchy" 2005 ($$$) is a blend of syrah, old vine zinfandel, and mourvedre. Almost a Rhone-esque blend, this wine has rich fruit and a tremendous mouthfeel. Quite "over-the-top" with a punk rawk bottle to boot.

Nicholas Day on Castaway

Mark Oppenheimer and Lee Faulkner of the New Haven Independent sit with local journalist Nicholas Day and talk about wine and the snobbery of the social wine world. It's the latest in their "Castaway" podcast series.
It's an interesting interview, that gets into some fun subjects: counterfeit wines, "viticultural candid camera", working in the industry, and wine "experts".

Top Wines of the Year (according to me)

Elm City Wino’s Top Wines of the Year...


So we’re about to wrap up another year. For me, this one has afforded me many great wine tasting opportunities for which I am grateful. It’s tough to try to narrow down the year into just a few favorites. I could easily list 20 or so wines that I was really into this year, but that list would more than likely be limited to mid-dollar, small production reds, as these tend to be my go-to wines. That would lead to a boring list.
I’ve decided to break down my year-end summary of wines to 20 wines. Ten will be under $15 and ten will be over $15 with each list being divided equally into reds and whites.
As with anything, wine is subjective, and this list in no means implies that you will love every wine on it. It just means I did.
Cheers!
-Matt Uva


...the Reds

under $15

5. Dominio de Eguren Protocolo
I mentioned this wine back in October. I still feel this wine is an excellent buy.

4. Nine Mile Road Cabernet Sauvignon
This Aussie red from American Estates has also been mentioned before.

3. Enrique Foster "Ique" Malbec
This wine is made without any oak, which makes it the perfect wine for discovering the Malbec grape in a pure form. It is a beautiful ruby-red color with a nose of red fruit and earth. Once in the mouth, the wine is slightly young, but will open up nicely with a short amount of time in the glass. The flavors of strawberry, raspberry, and licorice are complemented by a body that is slightly more than medium. Many of New Haven's restaurants have had an increase in their sales of Malbec, and in turn have begun to add more of them to their wine lists. The "Ique" Malbec is a great introduction to this versatile grape.

2. Domaine de la Solitude Cotes du Rhone
Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, and Mourvedre come together to make this mellow example of Cotes du Rhone. Dark purple fruits dominate the nose, with some lighter hints of cooking spices. The wine is medium bodied with fruit and mineral flavors. Middle of the road acidity and tannin structure mean this wine is fine on its own or paired with lighter fare.

1. Luzon 2005
My under $15 Red of the Year has been mentioned before. It received 87 points from the Wine Spectator. Just buy it already.


over $15

5. Bodegas Juan Gil
This wine just breaks the $15 mark. Go back to April and read about it.

4. Palari Faro 2003
Three grapes, indigenous to Sicily, small production, and a kick-ass wine. Read about it here.

3. Cenit 2003/2004
I'm giving it to both vintages here. I've mentioned them before. Most wine snobs would be against the idea of combining vintages. Then again, most wine snobs are so into ratings that they'll only buy a wine that has been given a high score. The problem is, by the time a wine gets scored well, it's completely out of stock in every store and warehouse, and no longer affordable at most restaurants.
It's a good idea to check a wine's provenance, or vintage history, when making a purchase. Were previous vintages scored well? Does the winemaker consistently make a good product? Using this concept, you could purchase the next vintage of Cenit when it comes out and feel pretty confident about its quality.

2. Clos de los Siete
Okay, this wine is pretty much mentioned all the time around these parts.

1. Ken Wright Cellars Elton Vineyard 2006
The Pacific Northwest produces two different pinots. There is the mellow Burgundian pinot, and the purely American fruit monster. The Ken Wright Cellars produces one of the finest monsters available. The wine smells and tastes of candied cherries with a perfectly balanced mouthfeel. This wine also displays the potential for some long-term aging. This is a super limited quantity wine, with fewer than 150 cases produced. Apparently the majority of Connecticut's allocation has made its way to one restaurant, Ferrante in Stamford.



...the Whites
note: I don't drink nearly enough white wine, so my choices from this year's tasting notes were limited

under $15

5. Mionetto N/V Prosecco Brut
The simplest way to look at prosecco is to consider it Italy's answer to Champagne. Technically, this would be completely inappropriate as you would be comparing apples and oranges, but it is sparkly. This effervescent wine from Sergio Mionetto is one of the better examples of prosecco at this price point. There is a nice balance of fruit and tartness with tight bubbles and a floral aroma.

4. Lindeman's 2006 South Africa Chardonnay
This wine was mentioned before.

3. St. Ludwig Bernkasteler Kurfurstlay Riesling Spatlese 2006
Yup, that one's a mouthful. Go here to learn how to decipher German wine labels.
The wine offers a nose of cold weather fruits, gravel, and cedar with flavors of peach and apple in a less dry white.

2. Castelo do Papa Godello
This amazing white hails from Valdeorras in the Northwest of Spain, where the rebellious nature of the people spills over into their winemaking. Using a grape, godello, normally reserved for blending, Castelo do Papa has created a wine with fresh aromas of fruits, mineral, dried herbs, key lime, and even ocean breeze. Melon, pineapple, and mineral flavors abound, while refined tannins lead the way for a cool, long finish.

1. Inama Soave Classico
Lemongrass and wildflowers run the bright, fruity nose, while light citrus and mineral occupy the tongue. The finish is crisp and lemony. The wine is aged in stainless steel, allowing the garganega grape to show its full potential.


over $15

5. 2005 Ferrari Carano Fume Blanc
Go back to May to read about it. It's on the wine list at Portofino.

4. Larochette Macon Blanc
Read about it here.

3. Vina Sila Naia Des
Read about it here.

2. Argyle "Nuthouse" Chardonnay
I was really impressed by Arglyle "Nuthouse" Pinot Noir, so much so that it inspired me to try this wine. The nose offers peach, hazelnut, and vanilla, while the mouth is creamy peach. The aftertaste is long and spicy.

1. JJ Prum Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2005
Yup another long one. Go back to German Wine Estates to decipher the label.
This one made Wine Spectator's Top 100 at 14th. 'Nuff said. It smells like key lime pie and peach cobbler with flavors of red and green apples. The aftertaste is dominated by the apple with a hint of the key lime.
There's almost zero chance you're going to find this wine. Go with my provenance theory from earlier and buy the next vintage when it's available.





And Elm City Wino's Wine of the Year is...

Bruno Colin Premier Cru Les Gravieres Santenay 2004 ($$$-$$$$)
This pinot noir from Burgundy is a prime example of what a cooler climate can do to a grape. This wine even tastes like cool weather.
It has a deep garnet color and a nose of black cherry (think Cherry Coke) and wildflowers, followed by a fruit forward, medium to heavy bodied wine. The aftertaste was super smooth and full of dark fruit. This is the only wine that has ever given me goosebumps.

The roof, the roof, the roof is on fire...

As many of you already know, almost an entire block in downtown New Haven burned down yesterday...


photo "borrowed" from New Haven Independent


So, what wines go well with insurance accidental fires???


2001 Campion Firepeak Vineyard Pinot Noir ($$$) has been mentioned before. Besides having the word, "fire" in its name, it's also grown in a light volcanic soil. Everybody knows volcanoes are H O T !

Garnacha de Fuego ($) is a great wine at a great price. This wine from Calatayud in Spain is picked from 65 year old vines grown in a terribly hot climate. This grenache offers a nose of raspberry, black pepper, and mint followed by a silky smooth black cherry, plum, and cooking spice palate. The acidity and tannins are in the medium range, meaning this wine will do well on it's own or with a variety of foods, although to keep with our theme, I recommend barbeque. This wine is another Jorge Ordonez gem.

Fire! Fire!!

Somebody started the fire, and there's a good chance they'll get caught. When they end up in the slammer, toast them with Big House "Slammer" Syrah ($). The Big House line is usually mediocre at best. This one is the star of their lineup -- a good DAILY DRINKER with a nose of smoky berry and ash (how appropriate!) followed by berries and black pepper. This wine won't change your life by any means, but if you're drinking at an arson fire, this may be your best bet. The stelvin twist-off cap will ensure a rapid escape with minimal spillage.

Grab a highball glass, some vodka, OJ, and rum and fix yourself a Brass Monkey in honor of the 3 week old nightclub that went down in the fire. For full effect, drink while listening to the Beastie Boys song of the same name.

After all of these, head over to the Bru Rm at Bar and grab one of Jeff Browning's beers. Stare at the brewing equipment that survived its own fire.

Changes to come at 116

Besides the large white birch trees in wooden orbs out front, 116 Crown has some changes in store. The ecWino crew was invited to a tasting of some new wines that may make it onto their wine list, and I have to say, these get interesting.

Some highlights....

Palari "Faro" ($$$-$$$$) is a MUST BUY. This wine, a blend of Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Nocera -- what! wait! what?! Yup, nobody has ever heard of these grapes! Winemaker Salvatore Geraci is solely responsible for saving these three indigenous grapes from Sicily, near Messina. Nobody else uses these grapes anymore. Intrigued? Good. Keep reading --
The DOC (Vino a Denominazione di Origine Controllata -- think, "appellation") is the smallest in Sicily, if not the smallest in the world. At 6 acres it is roughly the size of one half of the New Haven Green. The grapes grow precariously on tall cliffs, forcing the wine to be handpicked. The wine is aged a year in oak and a year in bottle before being released to the public. As you can probably guess, this wine is super limited in production, so get it while you can. Yes, it's a little pricey, but it's definitely worth the splurge -- this is a once in a lifetime event; you'd spend $60 to parachute from Mt. Rushmore if you could. "Faro" means "lighthouse", and is named for the lighthouse on the same property that overlooks the Straits of Messina. Production is usually around 7,000 bottles. For the entire planet.
The wine itself is practically a topographical map of its terroir. A nose of blueberries is complimented by more complex notes, ranging the gamut of deep red fruits, hearty topsoil, and black tea. It is a pleasantly balanced wine, with just a hint of over-the-top alcohol, sure to please even the most hardcore California drinker, yet the wine still has that mellow, relaxed quality found in the best of Italian wines. The finish brings the drinker back to the berries and black tea for a brief moment.

Fans of old world whites will enjoy the Larochette Macon Blanc ($$$). This white Burgundy sees almost zero oak, instead relying on just the grape to bring you an impressive, yet mild white. Graphite, mineral, and citrus flavors dominate this wine, with a smooth acidity, and pleasant aftertaste. This wine also falls under my MUST BUY classification, with the stipulation that the drinker(s) be a fan of Old World European whites -- This will not impress a California Chard drinker.

Vina Sila Naia Des ($$-$$$) can already be found at Barcelona, so even if the folks at 116 don't pick this up, it can still be had. For fans of white wine, New or Old World, this is a MUST BUY. This Verdejo offers a nose of orange blossom and vanilla, with toasty oak. Pear and pinenuts dominate the taste, with a nice balance and aftertaste brought on by the oak. The regular Naia Verdejo ($-$$) is aged exclusively in stainless, and while still an exciting wine for the price, lacks the character that oak gives the Naia Des. This wine will complement most of the foods found on 116's small plate menu, or will do fine on its own.

Domaine du Closel ($$) is basically a chenin blanc that has been affected by botrytis. Botrytis, or noble rot is a fungus that attaches to the skin of the grape, but does not pierce it. Seriously, before you go any further, go to the Wikipedia entry for Botrytis, read all about it, and get un-grossed out. This wine was one of the most talked about wines at the tasting. It was suh-weet, bordering on dessert wine, and is a MUST TRY (yes, I just invented a new classification).
Polaner Selections and Louis/Dressner have a much better explanation of this wine than I could ever give you here.

Chateau Teyssier 2005 (NA) should serve as an introduction to the 2005 Bordeaux vintage. The wine was described by sommelier, Eoin Connors, as "what wine should taste like", and gave a lasting impression to all in attendance. Even the most hardcore of California wine fans were taken aback by this wine. Blackberries and wildflowers occupy the nose, while something akin to grenadine dominates the mouth. The wine is made on property once thought to be "inhospitable" to wine, but with the help of master winemaker Jonathan Maltus and the Oenologue Gilles Pauquet, has become one of the most sought after cult wines of the area. Those unfamiliar with Gilles, need only to Google "cheval blanc" to get an idea of the quality of his work.
Technically the Cheval Blanc 1999 ($$$$$+) was also tasted, but I will intentionally fail to review it, as I would prefer that the super limited quantities of this wine only fall into my hands.

These are just a few of the real gems John and Danielle are bringing in to the restaurant. They have really taken to the idea of keeping the wine list "funky", chock full of hard to find, limited quantity items, sure to impress the most finicky of winos.

The New Haven Life

I hit 116 Crown for a little while tonight, and while I was there I met someone from a new New Haven Info site: The New Haven Life (thenewhavenlife.com). He showed me a bit of the site, and referred to it as, "MySpace for New Haven businesses". It allows a business to set up "profiles" and keep us all up to date on events happening in the New Haven foodie scene. The events calendar is pretty neat, offering tons of ideas for a night out.
The nice thing about the site is that it's not a part of the City of New Haven's spin machine, instead offering ideas that don;t come from political donors with deep pockets.
Great job, great site, great idea.

no nips, no singles, no smokes

College Wine is moving, thanks to the same development that forced the closing of TK's earlier this year. They'll relocate to Chapel Street, where the Town Green District people are worried about folks drinking on the green. As a result, College Wine will no longer be allowed to sell single cans of beer, "nips", or cigarettes. Apparently, the Town Green District figured the extra block walk to the old College Street location was too much for downtown drunks (read: derelict down!) to handle. Go over to the New Haven Independent and read all about it.

nice rack

I stole this idea from BrooklynGuyLovesWine, another oenoblogger. Post your rack. (or one of 'em).



I know, I know, too close to the baseboard heat. But, hey, these won't be around for long, just check out the recycling bin on the right hand column...

Firm As An Oak

poorly scanned temperance certificate

1 July, 1843


Just to show this wino thing doesn't run in the family...
I came across this Temperance Certificate while helping my grandmother move. It's a nifty little piece of nostalgia, that shows the temperance movement was alive and well in Litchfield County in the mid 1800's. One of my ancestors, Cyrus Catlin, apparently believed enough in the movement to pledge, "not to drink any INTOXICATING LIQUOR (sic) as a beverage, and also to use all possible influence to induce friends and associates to do the same".
The coat of arms is pretty neat, reading, Sobriety, Firm As An Oak, and Domestic Comfort across banners held by an appropriately dressed lad and lady. Children sit atop the lower banner which reads, Be thou faithful unto death. Sounds like a great tattoo for a Straight Edge kid.
Sorry about the poor scanning.

Tiny Bubbles....

Carlos over at Firehouse 12 (45 Crown St.) is offering Laurent-Perrier champagne by the glass. It comes in a nifty little 187ml bottle, so there's no waste, and you get fresh champagne each time. They're going for $15, which is pretty good, since when you do the math (187ml times $15 times 4 for a 750ml) you get roughly a few dollars less than retail.

Laurent-Perrier Brut Champagne N/V ($$$) is complex with vanilla, berry, and earthy notes with a lingering aftertaste. This is Mo's MUST-BUY.


For those with tighter budgets, try Mionetto Prosecco Brut N/V ($-$$). I had the opportunity to pour this at the Taste of Connecticut: Fairfield County charity dinner/silent auction, and was pleasantly surprised. 100% Prosecco (Italy's answer to Champagne), done in the Charmat method, offers a crisp, fresh wine with a straw color and small, tight bubbles. There was an aroma of lemon and granny smith apples, followed by sweet and tart flavors on a mildly dry wine. The finish runs long, and the drinking is easy.

Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé!

Happy Nouveau Day!!

One of the silliest wine rituals happens today -- Beaujolais Nouveau. The first of the Beaujolais Villages Gamay grapes to be harvested each year are released on the third Thursday of November. Thousands of people line the streets to see the wine off on its voyage around the world. It's a big hit in eastern Asia, where it fetches top dollar and ceremonies are held to "free" the wine.



It does seem to be a bit of a fuss for what is otherwise a wine without much BANG, but it is fun, and heck, it's only once a year.

This year's wine is a bit sweeter than years past, but will still compliment Thanksgiving dishes well. It's the 25th anniversary of Nouveau Day, so head over to winewithoutrules.com (The official DuBoeuf Beaujolais Nouveau website), and join in the insanity.

Pacific Northwest vs. France. Fight!!!

When all else fails, go back to pinot noir.


We ate at KuDeTa recently, and had the daunting task of polishing off two bottles of some damn good pinot. Woe is us.


Argyle Nut House Pinot Noir 2004 ($$$) from the Williamette Valley of Oregon is part of Argyle's Reserve series. Grown almost entirely on Argyle's Lone Star Vineyard property, the wine is a traditional midrange-to-higher end Oregon Pinot (read: MONSTER), and is aged just over a year in French oak. The nose of plum and blackberry is complemented by vanilla. In the mouth it becomes reminiscent of a blackberry flavored fruit roll-up dipped in dark chocolate. The tannins are grainy and dissectable (is that a word?), but are almost overshadowed by the big luscious fruit and a nice finish.
This is a must buy for fans of big Pac Rim pinots. If you're more of the Burgundian type, read on...

Morey St. Denis, Domaine Henri Jouan 2005 ($$$$) from Burgundy had a light nose of earth, blueberry, and lemongrass. The mouthfeel is typical mellow Burgundian, with fruit-forward elements of dark red cherry, and a smooth, lingering finish. This wine is a Michael Skurnik selection. It's a safe bet that if you see his name on the back of the bottle, you'll do well.

Updates

Play Magazine, the New Haven Register's weekly answer to the New Haven Advocate, did a write-up on the 50 Beers From 50 States tasting held recently at New England Brewing Co. (and previously mentioned on ecWino). If you look closely, we've got a quick mention in the article. Yay, us.
Our favorites included...
Orlio Black Lager ($) My tasting notes say the following, "coffee, coffee, coffee, caramel".
Maui Brewing Bikini Blonde (N/A) It's not yet available in CT, but if you were to go to the Bru Room at BAR (254 Crown St.), order Jeff Browning's Blonde Lager, throw some lemon zest into it and shake, you'd pretty much get the idea.
Tommy Knocker Cocoa Porter (N/A) from Colorado, and also not yet available in CT is brewed with cocoa powder and honey. The chocolate taste had an almost artificial quality. It seemed as though it should be paired with one of those banana flavored bomb pops you used to get from the ice cream truck.
The biggest disappointments of the evening were Anheuser-Busch Blueberry (tasted like horse ass with red food coloring), Arrogant Bastard (too aggressive, with a nose of dirty laundry), and Avatar Jasmine IPA (bordered on stunt brew, too much jasmine).

Clos de los Siete ($$) (mentioned several times) is quickly on its way to being my favorite wine ever. Local legend, Rinsey, called me last night from the 19th floor of the Omni Hotel (155 Temple St.), where 'Siete is being served by the glass at John Davenport's. Great wine, a great nighttime view of New Haven, and total Rinse-a-bauchery makes for an awesome Friday night.
Also, Wine Spectator just rated the new vintage an 87.

Bodegas Torre Muga 2004 ($$$$) which can be found at Barcelona (also at 155 Temple) just scored a 95 from Wine Spectator, although after their recent high ratings of Yellow Tail, I'm beginning to refer to that magazine as Wine Speculator. Hopefully they were just drunk that day.
The Prado Enea and the Reserva from Muga, which we've mentioned before both scored an 85.

116 Crown (116 Crown St., duh) has run out of the Campion Central Coast Pinot Noir ($$$), and I'm sure I am partially to blame as I've gone through at least a case and a half since they've opened. I raved about it back in May, and now it's gone. They've replaced it with Domaine Coteau Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir 2006 ($$-$$$) from Oregon. This wine was more Burgundian than a fan of Oregon Pinot might be used to, but was good nonetheless. Earth and plum dominate the nose, while the palate is an attack of expressive black cherry and blackberry, "wrapped" in a silky texture, before giving way to a shorter (Burgundian) finish. This is by no means a typical Oregonian, but well worth the try.
The wine is unfined and unfiltered (hello, vegans!) and mellow enough to complement a wide range of vegan dishes.

Ansonia?? Shelton???

Local readers will understand my apprehension when I mention that I basically grew up in the "Valley". The Valley, from Naugatuck south to Shelton (yes, Shelton, you're considered Valley), has been the subject of many a joke here in south-central Connecticut. An area formerly made up of abandoned brass mills, empty main streets, and drunk teenagers, the Valley has actually turned around quite a bit.
During a recent visit, I found that Valley towns are slowly becoming an extension of Fairfield County, with the wine to prove it...

Crave is a new restaurant on Main St. in Ansonia (102 Main St. 203.734.2913). They've got quite an impressive wine list, with a focus on quality over quantity. Their food has been likened to that of the former Roomba in New Haven.

Valley Discount Liquor (555 Main St. 1.877.494.WINE) is a larger store that eschews the "big box" feel by having actual sommeliers on staff. They aren't just a specialty shop, however, as you can still get your 30 rack of the High Life. Can't make it down there? They do internet sales.

My visit also brought me to Il Palio in Shelton (5 Corporate Dr. 203.944.0770). They feature Tuscan cuisine, a large wine list from around the world, and a pretty relaxed bar. Check out their website.


Il Palio

I guess I can't use the old running-water-in-the-valley joke anymore.

You say tomato, I say shiraz

In California, it's Syrah, but in the Barossa Valley, it's "shiraz" (said with best Crocodile Dundee impersonation), and it's never "sirah" anywhere. Confused yet? No?
Once upon a time there was a pretty, feminine grape named Mondeuse. She was an odd sort, and didn't have many friends until one day she met another obscure French grape. His name was Dureza. He was big and tough, and the two immediately fell in love and produced an offspring, Syrah. Syrah featured qualities of both it's parents -- big and full bodied, yet elegant and refined. Syrah travelled to other countries, where he received many other names -- Syrac, Serine, Shiraz, Hignin Noir, to name a few. Syrah hitched a free ride to Australia in the form of vine clippings in the early 1800's, and really thrived in a place called Barossa Valley.

Mollydooker Shiraz "The Boxer" ($$) has been receiving a lot of press lately, including a 95 point rating from Robert Parker. It retails for around 20 bucks here in CT, but I find that spending another couple of dollars for Mara Laughing Jack Shiraz ($$) can be a better purchase. If it's cheap-but-great that you're going for, pick up Peter Lehmann's Barossa Valley Shiraz ($).

The Mollydooker Shiraz "The Boxer" ($$) is worthy of all the attention it has been getting, as it is an intense "fruit bomb", capable of running with the big dogs of Aussie shiraz (would they be "big dingoes"???). It was, in my opinion, a little too "hot" with an almost artificial alcohol taste. That's not to say it wasn't good -- it just wasn't a 95 in my book. 89-90? Sure. 95? Nope. Check out Blog Cellar, they liked it.

The Mara Laughing Jack Shiraz ($$) is more of the well balanced Aussie "fruit bomb" I expect. Blackberry and plum dominate the nose as well as the palate. Black pepper rounds everything out. The finish involves notes of menthol, which has been an interesting new sensation in recent vintages of Aussie reds (see the Nine Mile Cab review). This wine is a MUST BUY, although it will probably be a never-find.

Easier to find, cheaper to buy, and still pretty damn good shiraz is Peter Lehmann's Barossa Valley Shiraz ($). Blackberry and raspberry give way to coconut and french vanilla ice cream with a peppery finish. The wine has a beautiful deep, deep red color with a black center. This wine is also a MUST BUY, and seems to be readily available in New Haven county.
For those of you with deeper pockets, check out Peter Lehmann's Eight Songs Shiraz ($$$) for a really great example of what Barossa has to offer.

Two more weeks.

Every once and a while, I don't get around to posting for about two weeks. I'm not sure why it's always that amount of time; it seems so arbitrary. Truth is, during those two weeks, I'm on a virtual wine-bender, and by the time I get home I can't find the computer, let alone type on it. So let's take a moment to fill you in on some recent samplings...


Porta Sole Pinot Grigio ($) from Italy may just be this season's under ten dollar hit. (The larger format bottle just breaks the ten dollar mark). The wine has a crisp, clean, light-yellow color -- typical of a pinot grigio, but not always one at this price point. It offers a nose of wildflowers and tropical fruits. The palate is fruity and medium bodied, with tastes of apricot and apple that linger at the back of the mouth before giving way to lemongrass and minerality on the finish. This is a good daily drinker.


Grayson Pinot Noir 2006 ($) retails at around $15. Normally, this would scare me away from a pinot noir. Good pinots are supposed to be in the thirty-and-over range, aren't they? This lively wine from the Central Coast of Napa, California is a rule breaker. Raspberry, strawberry, and cooking spices dominate this pinot with nice acidity and a mellow finish. At this price, you can't go wrong.

Montecillo Crianza 2001 ($) from Rioja is a standout from most other 2001 tempranillos. First off, it's cheap. Second, you don't have to go hunting for it, 'cause almost everybody's got it. It offers a complex nose of earth, ripe cherry, and vanilla and is followed by tastes of black cherry, cola, and cranberry before giving way to a smooth oaky finish. This wine was made for sitting on the porch with a loaf of Chabaso Roasted Garlic Ciabatta and talking to the squirrels (no, really, it's a great time). This is an obvious MUST BUY.

Luzon 2005 ($) from Jumilla is another stunner for less than a tenspot. Mouvedre and Syrah give this wine a deep purple color with an almost black center. Blackberry is the standout here, with cassis for good measure. This wine is ripe and rich from some of the highest altitude vineyards in the area. Another MUST BUY.

Just in case you thought there was some sort of ten dollar theme going on here, the Prevail Back Forty 2003 ($$$$) from Ferrari Carano's own mountain vineyards is a life changer. Deep, deep aromas of ripe berries, white chocolate, and earth are rounded out by a light smell of the Simon & Garfunkel spices (think about it). The wine is so full-bodied, it needs to shop at a special store. The fruit on the palate actually tastes like you just bit into a strawberry, then a red cherry, then a blueberry, then... well, you get the idea. The finish is so smooth it needs a Shaft-esque soundtrack.


Gordon ($) from Oskar Blues Brewing Co. might just be the hoppiest beer I've ever had in a can. The beer was a nice red, with an aroma of pine and cake (we'll call it, Christmasy). The flavor was of citrus and sweet malt, with a hint of the pine still there, which was neat because it made me feel like I was actually sitting at the Colorado brewery. The bitter finish was typical of the IPA style. I'd buy it again if I could find it. I found mine at Wine Thief.


Speaking of beer, the elmcitywino crew attended a 50 Beers From 50 States tasting at New England Brewing Company, which if you didn't know is in New Haven. If you didn't know that, then you probably didn't know they offer up three of the best canned beers I've ever had (Elm City Lager, Atlantic Amber, and Sea Hag IPA -- listed in my order of preference), not to mention some amazing age-worthy specialties from time to time.
Anywho, the tasting was a blast, but I misplaced my notes on everything I tried. I'll keep looking. I do remember, however, that you should avoid Alaskan beer at all costs, don't go near the Anheuser-Busch blueberry beer, and "Batch 1000" barleywine is a definite LAY DOWN beer. Keep checking their site, because eventually the event will have a write-up.


Also, find a bottle of Peter Lehmann Shiraz ($-$$). It will teach you everything you need to know about the Barossa Valley, for a bit less money than great Barossa Shiraz usually goes for.

Espana!

Ah, what wonderful tasting opportunities we've had lately, thanks in part to you, the reader. More and more restaurants in the Elm have been telling me they have heard their customers mention Elm City Wino. Thanks.

So I had the chance to sample a few Spaniards the other night. Allow me to share some of the highlights...

Nora De Neve 2005 ($$-$$$) was an awesome white from the Rias Biaxas region in northwest Spain. The area is known for it's autonomy, and this wine showcases this independent spirit. The use of oak with Albarino is usually shunned, as winemakers fear it will overpower the fruit. With the Nora de Neve, however, it works. The wine is light gold in color, with a nose of exotic citrus, peach, and a "toastiness" that probably comes from the French Allier oak (aged 7 mos.). With medium body and a taste of grapefruit and something I could only describe as "tree-bark", which gave it just enough bitterness to round out the wine. At a tasting with plenty of spit-buckets, this is one I didn't spit out. This wine is a MUST BUY.

Remelluri Rioja 2001 ($$-$$$) comes from the highest elevation in Rioja at bodega Granja Nuestra Senora de Remelluri. It is marked "Reserva" in Spain, but for some reason it does not in the states. The wine has a nose of tobacco and earth, with obvious notes of the oak (90% French, 10% American). The wine is full bodied and just a pleasure to drink. I also consider this wine a MUST BUY, especially for those of you with proper cellars, as the wine shows signs of "ageability" (still can't figure out the proper spelling for that word). The wine is predominantly Tempranillo, with Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo added for balance.

Muga Seleccion Especial Reserva 2003 ($$$-$$$$) was my favorite of the bunch. It comes from the traditional blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, and 10% Mazuelo and Graciano. It has a bouquet of fresh, dark red fruit and cooking spices and wonderfully merged flavors of fruits and mineral. The fruit is complemented by French and American oak. If it can be found, it must be had.

Prado Enea Gran Reserva 1998 ($$$), another Rioja from Bodegas Muga came a close second in my list of favorites. The wine is a beautiful ruby red. The nose is quite interesting, with several different aromas all vying for recognition. Leather, gardensoil, berries, vanilla, and coconut are all present, and each pop up independently of each other. Leather, vanilla, and cinnamon are on the tongue with a silky smooth mouthfeel. The wine finishes with a small "injection" of acidity (hello, cellar-time). As I re-read my notes, I begin to wonder if this wine may have been my favorite instead.

Alonso Del Yerro 2004 ($$-$$$) is a Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero that is quickly achieving cult status. Stop reading now. Get out and buy this wine. It might be gone by the time you finish reading this post. Fellow wine-blogger WineCentric has a pretty good post on the Alonso del Yerro.

Cenit 2004 ($$$) has been a favorite of mine for a while. It is a Tempranillo from 80 to 100 year old vines from the Tierra de Zamorra region northwest of Madrid. It has an aroma of blackberries, blueberries, cooking spices, and something that can only be described as "No. 2 pencil" (woody, graphite). It is rich in body texture and taste, with a good acidity that shows cellar potential. This is a MUST BUY and will definitely be one of my top favorites of the year.
For those of us with tighter budgets, Vinas del Cenit also offers Venta Mazzaron ($-$$). The color of oxblood Doc Martens, it has a nose of blueberry, blackberry, mocha, and espresso. The Mazzaron tastes of dark fruits, that are "interrupted" by white pepper. It has a looooong finish that will give you time to think about how smart you are for finding this bottle for less than $20. An obvious MUST BUY.

Juan Gil has been mentioned before. That was the '04 vintage. Now we're on Juan Gil 2005 ($-$$). Wildflowers and big, red berries give way to sweet fruits balanced by oak and ginger.


All of these wines can be found at Barcelona (155 Temple St) or around the corner at Wine Thief.

Ole!

Coltibuono

Yesterday, I mentioned the Coltibuono Cancelli ($). Today, I had the opportunity to taste quite a few more wines from their portfolio.
Rather than get in depth about them all, I will just say that if you see the name, "Coltibuono", buy it. If you see the name "Coltibuono" followed by the word, "Estate", buy two.

Some highlights of the tasting were...
Coltibuono Chianti Classico Estate 2005 ($$) was dry as hell, and awfully green. Let it breathe, and it mellows out to a wine dominated by fruit with a peppery finish. A few months from now, it will probably have mellowed out "in bottle". The Estate has been fairly anticipated by Italian wine geeks, so you're going to have to get one now, even if you plan on opening it in a few months.
Coltibuono Grappa di Sangioveto ($$-$$$) was my first real foray into grappa. Grappa is a pomace based brandy, found in Italy. Grappa, or "Grape Stalk", was originally conceived to eliminate waste from winemaking. Pomace, grape stems, seeds, and skins are distilled to make this brandy.
The Coltibuono Grappa is distilled by Nannoni, which is pretty much the top distiller in Tuscany. It has a nose of pear, and will leave hair on your chest hair.

If you're having a hard time locating Coltibuono, Monsanto Chianti Classico 2003 ($$) rated 91 points from Wine Spectator.

Living in the Lap of Lush-ery

It was a busy week for this wino. I "forced" myself to sample quite a few wines, all for your benefit. YOUR benefit.

9 Mile Road Cabernet 2005 ($-$$) from Australia was a very interesting and very surprising Cabernet from the unofficial home of Shiraz. This wine is grown in South Australia in a small region known as the Langhorne Creek Valley. An old path that runs through the valley gives the wine its name. The area has an outstanding reputation for big, impressive wines, that are usually within budget. This wine, in particular, has the added bonus of being made by Greg Follett, a winemaker from a family with 3 generations of experience.
The 2005 vintage was affected by drought, with lower-yielding vines and ripe fruit. The wine is a deep ruby color with a nose of menthol and eucalyptus, balanced by licorice and black cherries. The menthol and eucalyptus invade the initial taste as well. These are not characteristics that one would normally find in a $16 Cabernet, which makes the wine all the more exotic. The taste rounds out with blackberries and hints of mocha.
The 9 Mile is spot-on, and a must buy, especially for those of you who haven't gotten past the usual low-end Aussies. It's being poured by the glass for less than 10 bucks at 116 Crown.

On a side note: If you haven't "gotten past the usual low-end Aussies", I can't really talk sh** as much anymore. Wine Spectator, which always tastes blind, has actually given a few of 'em decent ratings....
..... Yellow Tail Shiraz Reserve 2005 ($) 90 points
..... Yellow Tail Shiraz Reserve 2006 ($) 89 points
..... Lindemans Shiraz Padthaway Reserve 2005 ($) 88 points
..... Yellow Tail Merlot Reserve 2005 ($) 87 points
..... Lindemans Shiraz Bin 50 2006 ($) 87 points
..... Yellow Tail Shiraz 2006 ($) 87 points
..... Yellow Tail Merlot 2005 ($) 86 points
..... Penfolds Thomas Hyland Shiraz 2004 ($-$$) 86 points
..... Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2005 ($) 85 points
..... Yellow Tail Shiraz Grenache 2005 ($) 85 points
..... Yellow Tail Shiraz Cabernet 2006 ($) 84 points
Now, ladies and gentlemen, this does not mean you should run out and get these bottles. It just means that it was okay when you used to. Now it's time to get a little more "diversified". I still feel the Penfolds offerings are acceptable Art Opening wines.


Mount Eden Chardonnay Wolff Vineyard 2005 ($$) from the Edna Valley region received 88 points from Wine Spectator, which is disgusting considering the previous list. I was much more impressed with this wine than I have ever been with a white, and more so that I ever will be with that Aussie list. Spicy vanilla on the nose, this wine started out like many other cold climate Chardonnays. Once on the palate, however, the wine started out with a taste of sweet pear and sour apple, and then stopped. No, really, the flavor stopped. Then it "started up again" with toasted wood flavors. It was wild how the two different stages of taste seemed to have a pause between them. I recommend this wine as a must buy to any hardcore Chardonnay fan, California of Burgundy. I also recommend this wine to newbies who need a fun experiment in tasting. Another benefit to this wine is that it holds up well to "day two", which is rare in a California Chard.


Ran into a friend at Yo MTV Shell (New Haveners know the spot), who I haven't seen in a while; gave her a couple bottles of wine...
The Bodegas Carrau Tannat Reserva ($-$$) has been mentioned before.
Conti Zecca Cantalupi Primitivo ($) is a rich, deep, ruby red table wine. A spicy nose makes way for a zesty palate of raspberry and rhubarb. It will benefit greatly from decanting. If you haven't run down to IKEA yet for their $9 decanter, just leave it open for a while. You really, really need to invest in a nice decanter. Target has one by Riedel, which is mid-range, for less than $30. Leave it on the table as a centerpiece when not in use.


Coltibuono Cancelli 2004 ($) is a blend of Sangiovese and Syrah (70/30). More Syrah in this vintage than previous years means bolder, snappier fruit from an already rich, textured wine. It's aged in stainless steel (no wood aging) to give it a youthful feel. Drink it now. Drink it often.
The vineyard is organic, and the winery property has a cooking school onsite.


I was treated to a bottle of Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio 2005 ($$-$$$) today. I was really surprised, as I usually don't dig the gris. It's aged in stainless steel for six months after sitting on its "must" (juice and guts) and then bottle aged for two months before being released to the public. The nose was of white roses, white pepper, and anise. Good acitidity gave way to peach tastes -- I just might have been won over to Pinot Grigio. Once I found out the Pinot Grigio grape is a mutant (mutation of pinot noir), I was sold. It's a must buy for lovers of the Gris.
Another cool factoid is that Marco Felluga (another maker of great Pinot Grigio) is the brother of Livio, and apparently they hate each other. Buy them both when you're drinking to get pissed.


Dominio de Eguren Protocolo Red ($), mentioned before is still good, and I'm drinking it right now. No really. Right now.
(That would have been more effective if it wasn't so easy to type with one hand)


There are more, but I'm getting a little tipsy and my spell-check is getting really annoying, so you'll hear about them another time.

More stuff I can't afford -- Big, French, and White edition

Over the weekend, I had the distinct opportunity to pour some amazing, no wait, AMAZING white Burgundies to several hundred of Connecticut's wine industry "players" (and player-haters) at the Mohegan Sun casino. Before CT's who's who of wine got into the tasting, I just may have had a few sips myself. Since most of us will never acquire a bottle of this stuff, let me allow y'all to live vicariously...



Louis Latour has been in the wine business for over 200 years. They are members of the elite club of Henokiens, a club of about 30 other companies who, as leaders in their respective fields, have been run by the same family for at least 200 years and still retain the name of their founder. One must admit, that this is pretty cool; most companies would've sold out to a huge conglomerate by now. Father and son, father and son, besides the family business, a true passion for the art of winemaking is passed down.
This passion is evident in Corton Charlemagne.
Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne 2004 ($$$$) offers a nose of green apple, cooking spices, and exotic tropical fruits followed by a full bodied flavor and a powerful, dramatic finish. The 2004 vintage will not be one of the extremely sought-after wines at future auctions. Do not, however, believe for one second that this limits this wine. The taste and mouthfeel of this wine are like a song that you hear, that sticks with you and haunts you until you finally find it in the import bin at a specialty record store. It was something I will never forget.
Hopefully, that description intrigued you. If it did, and you have a proper cellar (sorry New Haven apartment dwellers -- myself included), than this wine is for you. Please, please, please do NOT stop there -- pick up a bottle of Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne 2005 ($$$$$) as well. It shows signs of age-ability (there must be a correct spelling for that word) for at least the next 10 to 15 years (Latour says upwards of 20 years for this one). This wine is a masterpiece that will fetch hundreds, if not thousands in future auctions. Roasted nuts and smokehouse aromas are matched by buttercream and vanilla on the nose complemented by mango and banana, quite a jump from the '04 vintage. The taste was a bit "green" for me, but I can only imagine what this wine will be like after decent aging in a proper (read: out of my financial reach) cellar. This wine currently retails for around $150, well out of my reach, but if you can afford it, this makes a wonderful addition to any cellar, or the ultimate gift to any wine collector. Have a boss or client who knows more about wine than the rest of us? This is your "in".

For the rest of us, I offer up two Ardeche Chardonnays well within our budgets.
Louis Latour Chardonnay d'Ardeche ($) and Louis Latour Chardonnay Grand Ardeche ($) are two fruit forward Chardonnays that should be purchased together. Both bottles can be had for around $20. The Ardeche is aged in stainless steel, while the Grand Ardeche is aged in French Oak. I recommend purchasing both because even a novice can pick out the differences in the two aging techniques. This makes a fun experiment for yourself, or a great evening amongst friends (read: fellow winos).

Thirsty Travelers

The ecWino crew just returned from a trip to Maine to attend the Maine Organic Farmers and Growers Association's Common Ground Fair. We try to attend this celebration of rural living every year, and this year was phenomenal.

On our way up, it dawned on me that we'd be passing Freeport, home to Maine Distilleries. We just had to stop for some goodies...

Cold River (showered that morning)
Maine Distilleries is the maker of Cold River Vodka ($$-$$$), which I've mentioned before. I still feel that this is the most underrated vodka in America, and a must buy.
I chatted with one of their employees about the lack of advertising or promotion in Connecticut and how that has led to poor sales. They've just introduced 187ml bottles (nippers, you drunks) that are retailing for about $4 in CT. If you see one, buy it, as this is the only real way I could ever convince you to buy a $45 vodka you've never heard of.
We checked out the distillery, as well as a collection of artifacts related to the Cold River Aquifer. We checked out tons of press they've received, including The Spirit Journal's rave, "Smooth as silk, yet complex and layered. A coming superstar." Then we drank.
Normally when one tastes a new vodka for the first time, the edge of the glass is held 2 1/2 to 3 inches from the nose. Not with Cold River, however. You can jam your schnozz right into the glass. It doesn't overpower on the nose, delighting you with the scent of farm-fresh potatoes. The smoothness of the nose gives you an idea of the taste. It's smooth, refined, and elegant. It has a sense of lemon zest on the tongue, and then it leaves. There is almost no aftertaste.
We loaded up with some goodies -- t-shirts and such. We did not buy large quantities of the vodka at unbelievably low distillery pricing, because CT law won't allow us to drive it back into the state. Ya heard that, Rell?! We did NOT buy large quantities for return to the state. Then we headed off to the fair.

We set up camp just outside of Unity, Maine, and headed on down to the local gas station to pick up some beers (BEE-UHHS). Yes, Connecticut, beer and wine are sold at gas stations in Maine -- you can guess what the selection is like. Troy General, the all purpose gas/beer/deli/deer-check station, has a better beer selection than most however.
Feeling "touristy", we opted for Portland, Maine's own Shipyard Brewing Company's Export Ale ($). This American Pale Ale pours a crisp body with a golden color and a fragile head that doesn't last after the first sip. It has a "citrusy" taste with a very light mouthfeel. This isn't a remarkable beer, but definitely a good daily-drinker. I would buy it again.

During our first day at the fair, we found some locally grown blueberries at the Farmer's Market. Heading back to camp, we stopped by Troy General again, this time grabbing Atlantic Brewing Company's Bar Harbor Blueberry Ale ($). Atlantic is out of Bar Harbor, Maine (and will be discussed later).
Stealing an idea from Salem Beer Works in Salem, Mass., we poured the blueberry ale over the fresh blueberries in our lexan pint glasses (even backpackers need proper glassware!).
The beer itself is a deceiving pale copper color, with only a hint of the blueberry in the nose. Blueberry is in the taste, but it's not overpowering. There's a generous amount of malt to balance out the fruit, but again, not overpowering. The perfect amount of hops finishes out the taste, and reminds you that you're drinking BEER. This is no stunt-brew. Quite possibly the most balanced fruit beer I've ever tried, this is a must buy.

That night we attended a large bonfire with other area campers on the grounds of a local hunting lodge. Our host brought out some homemade wine that his wife kept referring to as "Pear Champagne". Pear Champagne apparently is what happens when you scare off all the pear-eating deer with your big guns and now have an overabundance of wild pears and a bucket of "Champagne yeast". There's no real need to describe pear champagne other than to offer this advice:
If you find yourself in the Maine woods, and a man with a large rifle offers you a drink, play dead.

Two of our lexan wine glasses (yep, backpackers need those, too!) were summarily destroyed, as I just couldn't rid them of the pear champagne smell.


Mo had never been to Acadia National Park, and as it turns out, they've got a few wineries out there. So we packed up and headed down east.


It doesn't really look like this area could offer the type of environment to grow grapes properly, so I just had to sample as much as I could.
We stopped first at Sweet Pea's Farm in Bar Harbor, home to Bar Harbor Cellars, a division of Atlantic Brewing Company. They've only just started to plant their own grapes (see below), mostly hybrids, due to the almost yearly 42 inches of frostline. They currently purchase their grapes from Tuscany.

ecWino at Sweet Pea's Farm and Winery, Bar Harbor (3 days, no shower)

I really got the impression that the place was a typical Maine tourist trap. It was chock full of bad fruit wines, served overly chilled. They had a couple of grape wines (merlot, Pinot Noir) that were awfully balanced as a result of making them without any tannins. "No tannins means no headaches!" was repeated often enough to become their mantra. They did, however offer a decent Zinfandel, full bodied and peppery, which I would have purchased, if only I had a way to get it back into CT.

That day we also went out to the home of Atlantic Brewing to check out what they had to offer besides blueberry beer.
I was immediately impressed by their Mount Desert Island Ginger Beer ($). A wheat ale brewed with copious amounts of ginger, this beer was spicy enough to be interesting, but well balanced by its malt. If you can find it, this beer is a must buy.
We grabbed a few of their beers and headed down to the town of Manset, where we camped out near a natural seawall.


The MacFoochies Scottish Ale ($) poured a nice coffee color, with a creamy thick head. This beer was complex with notes of barley, chicory, coffee, chocolate, and toffee. The aftertaste was big and smoky. It lingered for just a bit and then was gone, inviting the next sip. This was possibly my favorite beer of the entire trip, and definitely a must buy.
Brother Adam's Bragget Ale ($-$$) was a barleywine style ale brewed with honey (sorry, vegans). The taste had notes of cherry and apple, cut into by a brandy-like flavor of honey. It was by no means the best bragget I've ever tasted, but if I saw it again, I'd probably pick it up. While it showed no signs that it would improve with, or stand up to, aging, I was assured by the brewery staff that it could go for up to ten years.



outside Bartlett Maine Estate Winery (4 days, no shower)

The next day, we headed out to Schoodic Peninsula and to the Bartlett Maine Estate Winery.
I was impressed to find that they were not attempting to make grape wines, but were instead using the exact methods of normal winemaking with fruits grown on their own estate.
These fruit wines were nothing like Grandma's old Boone's Farm. These wines had character and complexity that one would expect in a California Cult Wine or rare French Vintage.
I swore their Wild Blueberry Oak Dry wine had all the elements of a fine Merlot, with the perfect balance of fruit and dryness.
Their French Oak Dry Pear, aged in new french oak, was reminiscent of a fine Riesling.
The more we sampled, the more we were amazed that with the proper technique, equipment, and passion, these fruits could be made into something actually deserving of the title, Wine.
We of course, did not purchase several cases, what with CT law and all. It's a real shame, though, because I'd really be into trying a bottle of the Wild Blueberry Oak Dry Winemaker's Collection in the autographed bottle right now.

Cheers from Maine!


p.s. best bumper sticker seen in Maine...
If they call it "tourist season", why can't we shoot them?

forwarded e-mail

As a rule, I generally discard any e-mails I receive that are forwarded. It's not that I don't enjoy looking at thirty or so pictures of fat cats, or hearing a new joke. I'm just completely paranoid about opening things -- the intrawebs are sooo scary!

I did, however open one recently (tip to spammers and scammers: put the word "wine" in the title line)...

Water vs Wine

In a number of carefully controlled trials, scientists have demonstrated
that if we drink 1 liter of water each day, at the end of the year we would have absorbed more than 1 kilo of Escherichia coli, (E. coli) bacteria found in feces. In other words, we are consuming 1 kilo of Poop.

However, we do NOT run that risk when drinking wine (or rum, whiskey or other liquor) because alcohol has to go through a purification process of boiling, filtering and/or fermenting.

Remember: Water = Poop,........................... Wine = Health

Therefore, it's better to drink wine and talk stupid, than to drink water
and be full of shit.

The Mystery of the Cuvinet Solved

We've mentioned the cuvinet system at 116 Crown before. It is said a cuvinet keeps wines served by-the-glass impeccably "fresh" for up to two weeks. It dispenses a layer of nitrogen into the bottle, to prevent oxygen contact with the wine.
I have a hard time drinking wine the day after it's been opened, let alone two weeks, so I just had to perform a little experiment.
We went down to 116 to try out the system. We had mustachioed bartender Drew pour us two glasses of wine from the cuvinet, and two glasses from a freshly opened bottle. We were not to see which was which, but Drew was to keep track. We chose Clio ($$$), because we'd had it before.
It was impossible for either of us to tell any difference from the nose of the wine. There was a difference in taste, but it was so subtle, we had to discuss it for a while before either of us would conclude there actually was a difference.
We guessed the cuvinet glasses correctly. Mo found the cuvinet glass to show less black pepper notes, a Clio "trademark".
With each glass held up to a white board under decent light, we could see that the wine from the freshly opened bottle was a bit clearer. The from-the-bottle and cuvinet wines both had the deep oxblood color.
I can't recommend by-the-glass wines from the cuvinet enough. If you're not out to finish off an entire bottle, this is a great alternative that still gives you a taste akin to a newly opened bottle.
The 2004 Clio normally retails for around $45 per bottle. On 116's cuvinet, it's fetching $9 per glass. This could very well be the steal of the century for a wine Wine Advocate gave 97 points.

2004 Lorca Malbec Opalo Vistaflores

Carlos at Firehouse 12 has a fever, and the only prescription is not more cowbell, but rather, Malbec. Just about every time I visit Firehouse, 'Los whips out some new Malbec that he is completely in love with. I can honestly say I've yet to have the same Malbec twice -- and none of his suggestions have been bad.
Thursday night, he pulled out 2004 Lorca Malbec Opalo Vistaflores ($-$$). And, as usual, there was no disappointment. Another Argentinian wine from Mendoza, this red hails from the Vistaflores vineyard. This vineyard is actually the site where Clos de los Siete is bottled, and the Lorca Malbec has not escaped the influence of Michel Rolland (insert sound of angels' trumpets).
The Vistaflores vineyard sits high in the Andes, where the vines are vertically trained, rather than set upon trellises. The "bushes" are trimmed often to minimize yield, but maximize quality.
The wine itself is lively, without being overbearing or too fruity. It hints at blueberry and apple. The tannins are smooth. The wine has a very Old World feel. It is unfiltered, and aged in concrete and stainless steel, as opposed to oak.
Buy this wine as an alternative to higher priced items such as Clos de los Siete or Cuvelier los Andes (mentioned before). They've got a full case, and per the norm, will probably not replace it, so you'll need to get down there ASAP.
Firehouse is also serving up the Tannat Reserva from Bodegas Carrau by the glass (previous review).

Edumacational Videos...

I was contacted a while back by a fellow wino from Edmonton, Alberta named Sorin Mihailovici. Sorin is currently taking classes at Grant MacEwan College in television production. One of his classes required some educational videos.
As any good wino will tell you, anything can become an excuse to open a bottle of wine -- Sorin naturally chose to do his educational videos on wine.
This one shows you an ingenious way to open a bottle of wine without a traditional corkscrew...


Open A Bottle Of Wine Without Corkscrew - Sorin Mihailovici

I found it pretty interesting, although technically there is a cork and a screw.

He also has a video showing how to remove red wine stains with milk (sorry, vegans) or white wine.

Sorin has a MySpace page, so give him a shout.

Clio

I had been hearing good things about Clio ($$-$$$) for a few years now. Robert Parker gave the 2002 vintage 93 points; he gave 96 points to the 2003. I'm not sure why it took me until the 2004 vintage to get around to trying it, but it seems there is a consistency in its quality. The wine is a blend of 60 year old Monastrell (Mouvedre) vines and 25 year old Cabernet grown in the Jumilla region of Spain.
This wine is brought together by Australian Chris Ringland, who started his own label, Three Rivers, in 1989. Since, he has traveled the world, bringing his knowledge to several top producers.
The wine itself was reminiscent of dark red fruits, coffee, and black pepper. The black pepper overpowers the taste at first, so allow this one to breathe. It's mouthfeel and long, smooth finish made me think of Silver Oak, a much higher priced California cult-wine.
The wine is currently being sold by the glass at 116 Crown (Crown St., New Haven) through their fancy shmancy super duper nitrous system (actual technical term), that keeps by-the-glass wine at by-the-bottle quality for up to 2 weeks.
Also running through the nitrous system are Chateau Villerambert Julien and Chateau Pontac Monplaisir.
Check out a video review of Clio on Winelibrary.com.

Chateau de Fifteen Bucks

French wine labels, while carrying all the necessary information, tend to be misleading. A $200 Bordeaux will carry a very similar label to a $5 bottle, and it's possible neither are very good. Some foodie friends of ours from Wallingford had us over tonight and offered Chateau Chantemerle Medoc 2005 ($). At $15, this bottle is a steal. The wine is a blend of merlot, cabernet, and malbec from vines that would be described in the U.S. as ancient. In Europe, obviously, they're still considerably young at 20. It was well balanced, flavorful, and structured. This is a very drinkable Bordeaux at an easily digestible price.

Revisiting Firehouse 12

I ran into Carlos from Firehouse 12 (45 Crown St., New Haven) at a wedding recently, and realized it had been a while since I had stopped in for a visit.
Carlos has been busy researching new wines and bringing in some new by the glass items. They almost always have a few specialties hidden away somewhere, so it's a good idea to ask your server before selecting something off the wine list.
I found Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano ($) off list. The wine is a blend of sangiovese, cabernet, and canaiolo, and was rated 90 points by Wine Advocate. This is a super value for a Tuscan wine. Earthy cherry and tobacco give way to a medium body and fine tannins. It will pair well with spicier dishes or stand tall on its own.
I was glad to see this wine at Firehouse and I hope it becomes a regular item.
They were also offering the Carrau Tannat Reserva ($) by the glass. For a previous write-up, check here.
One of the Caymus Belle Glos pinot noirs will be available soon by the bottle, although I couldn't figure out which one.

Firehouse also has a fairly progressive beer list.

It's Red. It's Cheap. It Works.

The original concept behind the ElmCityWino project was to offer a sort of Wine For Dummies-type reference, while keeping the bottles affordable. I have never thought much of spending $30 for a bottle of wine, as wine tends to be consumed for a special dinner or occasion. I had never considered a $30 bottle as anything but affordable for such an occasion. It turns out many of my friends are more deserving of the title, Wino, than maybe even I, and I have been getting requests for a decent wine closer to the two-buck-chuck set.
Not one to run out and grab every "flavor" of Boone's Farm (Grandma Joyce warned me of that), this proved to be a daunting task. Various $10 and under bottles were purchased, consumed, and dumped.
One ecWino fan suggested I try hitting up South Shore Wine & Spirit (10 Coe Ave. East Haven, 203.466.9463), as they have a nice $10 section. Even there, I ran into the Aussie hurdle. It's not that an Aussie wine can't be good, it's just that there is definitely a marketing research survey behind every cuddly critter emblazoned on a wine bottle. The French don't put animals on their bottles, now do they?
So I looked into France. Unfortunately, most French wines require at least some knowledge of the wine other than what is printed on the bottle. A $200 Bordeaux and a $7 Burgundy will have deceptively similar looking labels. I tried a few of the cheapies, and with the exception of Chateau Cazenove, most were simply terrible. I decided to head further South.
As I perused the Spanish sections of several local shops, I kept leaning towards Rioja, when it came to me. I know of a certain wino stuck in the CT "heartland" (read: Marlborough) who buys Eguren Protocolo by the case.
Dominio de Eguren Protocolo ($) is a Tempranillo grown in the oft-overlooked appellation of Tierra de Castilla, located in Don Quixote's Central Spain. Jorge Ordonez's name is on the back of the bottle, so I knew I was on the right track.
The wine is surprisingly big, with tastes of chocolate and cherries. The tannins are grainy and dissectable (not a word?) with a spicy aftertaste (ole!).
This wine will not change your life in the ways that many of the wines of Montsant will, but it works. It exceeds any expectations I would have had regarding an $8 bottle, and will probably end up in the rack often.

Ferrari Carano Alexander Valley Chardonnay

We've still been getting some unbearably hot days this month (well, unbearable to this dude from Maine), so the search for decent summer whites continues.

Ferrari Carano's 2005 Alexander Valley Chardonnay ($$) is another spectacular white from Sarah Quider, FC's Whites Winemaker. Having various appellations and unique micro-climates at her disposal ensures the quality of most, if not all, Ferrari Carano whites of recent vintage. A pleasant, fruit-forward Chardonnay, this wine boasts aromas of papaya, pineapple, and mango. The taste features more tropical fruit and toasted almond with lemon/citrus subtleties.
This wine is barrel fermented and kept in stainless steel for two days before being aged in French Oak. It features fruit from eight of FC's vineyards, located in four regions -- Alexander Valley, Russian River Valley, Dry Creek, and Napa. 2005 was a mild season, allowing the vines to reach full maturation before a Fall harvest.
This wine will pair well with salads, fish, even heartier dishes. Its complexity, multiple pairings, and price point make this a MUST BUY white.

Castello di Bossi 2001 Chianti Classico

Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico 2001 ($$)...
Predominantly Sangiovese with a tiny bit of Merlot and Canaiolo thrown in, the wine starts out in steel vats, then ends up in French oak for 6-8 months, depending on harvest. The wine itself varies a bit within the vintage, so stay away from restaurant pricing for this one. Ruby red, with smells of aged oak, old cherries, and young violet, this wine has a great balance between tannins and alcohol, with a smooth aftertaste. This is a great, great wine, but due to the variation within vintage can be hit or miss -- most likely "hit", but don't come looking for me if you get one of the baddies.

It's okay to drink the same wine twice.

No, really.

The lack of posting has come from a desire to resample some of the better wines we've had this year.
This week was a veritable festival of Had Before wines.
We begin with the Tannat Amat ($$), which we've mentioned before, and have had at 116 Crown. Find it. Buy it. 'Tis good, yes?
We also had the Bastianich Vespa Rosso ($$), which, yes, was also mentioned before. We had it at Cafe Goodfellas the first time, but special ordered it from Chatham Wine and Spirit. You'll probably have to special order it, as no one else watches that crazy Italian cooking show with Lidia Bastianich (the winemaker's mother). Tell your trusted Wine shop it's distributed by Worldwide, which is now owned by Brescome & Barton, but still has it's own book. If your wine shop doesn't know what this means, switch wine shops.
Other wines previously sampled were, Bodegas Can Blau ($$)and Ferrari Carrano Fume Blanc ($$) which is on the wine list at Portofino on State St.

There was also quite a bit of beer. Good, American Beer. Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA ($) and Orlio Organic IPA ($) are both great examples of a "good, American beer" -- slightly hoppy, moderate alcohol content, and quite drinkable from the bottle. Besides these two, the only beer I'd want with me on a deserted island would be Rogue's Dead Guy Ale ($) which pretty much falls into the same category, with a little plus-sign in the hoppy category.

Concha Vecino, te quiero

Alright, I'm sure my Spanish is terrible, and I just told her she smells of goat bladder, or something, but this is a woman to revere.
Concha Vecino is a winemaker for Bodegas Nekeas, and the woman behind Vega Sindoa Merlot. She is considered to be THE female winemaker in Spain, and a force to be reckoned with in all of southwestern Europe.
The vineyards of Bodegas Nekeas, in the Navarra region of Spain, sit in the foothills of the Pyrennes -- King of the Mountains, Viking Helmets, crazy Basque cycling fans. The region receives cooling winds from the Atlantic, providing a stable growing season for many types of grape.
The Vega Sindoa Merlot 2002 ($) is not the most complex of wines, but offers a wonderful glimpse into the world of real Merlot. Paul Giamatti's Sideways character would be hard-pressed to deny the pleasure this wine brings. It has a nose of wild cherries and a dark ruby color reminiscent of your old Doc Martins. The mouthfeel is dense and fleshy, with a boldly fruit-forward taste. The finish is smooth with a slight "tang" that lingers briefly, inviting another sip. This is one of the better Merlots you'll find at this price point.
This is a MUST BUY and will even age well for a couple years (buy it by the case?).
This is another Jorge Ordonez selection, and remember, kids, that means good drinkin'.

Grape Island Glass, Cold River, Cheeseboards

When you drink and/or dump quite a bit of wine, you end up with quite a bit of empties. As most New Haveners know, large glass bottles left in a recycling bin become large destructive projectiles for area teens. So what does one do with all those empties?
Grape Island Glass, currently from Orange, takes many of my old bottles and uses them for various glass-fusion experiments, my favorite of which are their cheeseboards (or mushroom pate boards for the vegans).
They recently took my old Cold River Vodka bottles...





No self-respecting wino is truly fulfilled until they own one of these.

116 Crown -- the last bar you'll ever need.

Dog vs. Bird -- Max Toth; a reproduction is on the ceiling in 116 Crown's "tea room"



Last Saturday brought the soft-opening of 116 Crown, the brainchild of John and Danielle Giannetti -- formerly of BAR (254 Crown St.). Never ones to be on time, the ecWino crew headed down there Friday night to check out the scene. We took with us 2 friends, one wine novice and one wine newbie, to get an overall picture of the place.

As you enter, you are immediately taken aback by how beautiful the place is. Contrasting textures and bold effects dominate the design, and every 20 feet you enter a different theme. You are greeted at the door by well dressed, dare I say, hipsters, who offer you a tour of the entire establishment. There are various little areas -- the "pods", the "eye", and the "tea room" that need to be seen to be fully understood. A DJ plays music that falls somewhere between dance and lounge, adding to the vibe that this is not just a pretty restaurant.
We chose the "tea room", and enclosed space with block-style couch seating and small tea tables. The room is equipped with its own iPod docking station, so be sure to bring your own tunes. The ceiling is an amazing painting by Max Toth, who we were joined by later in the evening. There are two sets of tables in the tea room which allows your party to be joined by strangers, making for a fun, communal evening.

The wine list is, in my opinion, the best in the state. The designer of the list is Eoin Connors, a contestant in the 2002 Young Sommeliers Competition, and one of the brightest young wine minds in the Northeast. The wines run the gamut of grape varieties and appellations, and John has dedicated himself to keeping everything affordable. One of our selections, Tannat Amat, ran us $40, which is only slightly higher than retail.

We started with Clos de Roillette 2004 ($$), a stately Fleurie that is one of the BEST Beaujolais wines available at this price point. This is widely considered the better of top-growths in the region, it featured dried chrery and raspberry flavors. It's a bit drier than most Beaujolais, so it should appease most wine drinkers. It ran us around $30, again only slightly higher than retail. John said his intent was to charge, "by the ounce", an appropriate price for what you drink. There is no, "this looks like it should be X dollars" style mark-up -- what you pay for is what you get.

Expect to pay around $8-10 for wines by-the-glass. Even the b-t-g selection is wonderful, with one of the ecWino guests ordering a German Pinot Noir (yes, German) and contrary to Robert Parker's beliefs, it was quite tasty. There isn't a wine on their list that I wouldn't recommend.

116 Crown will be known more for their mixed drinks, however, with John and Danielle inventing new drinks or re-inventing old ones. Mo had a grapefruit and basil mojito that she just couldn't rave about enough.

This Tuesday marks their "grand opening" so be sure and get down there soon, before the boozerati crowd takes over.

Because Man Cannot Live On Rice Alone

"Because Man cannot live on rice alone" is the creed by which the crew at Miya's (68 Howe St. New Haven) live, work, and play. Bun Lai, the proprietor, has been foraging through local woods with his most trusted henchmen (read: employees) in search of the most unique of local ingredients. These ingredients are not for his sushi, but rather for infused sake.
Bun has been fermenting his own sake for some time now, and tossing in things that at first glance seem like an experiment in beautiful anarchy. Truth is, many of these recipes are centuries old, such as the Gayanashagowa -- billed as, "the Iroquois peace drink that brought a thousand years of harmony".

Mo and I went down to Miya's last week to try these sakes out. Bun offers a Sake Sampler for $38.75. It comes with a brandy snifter of Ultraviolet Kisses, and small tasting glasses of 7 other infused sakes. The sampler is billed in the menu as being, "for 2 very close friends". It was actually a little much for Mo and I (amateurs), and quite a bit was left in each glass. Buy this for a crew of four (or more).

I'll do my best to describe each sake, as well as offer Mo's opinion (if she had one)...


EMERALD WITCHES' LIPS
This was infused with hand-picked green pine cones. The nose was very "piney" (not a word?), and reminded us of being in the Maine woods after a spring rainstorm. The taste, while still "piney", was actually quite citrusy (that's not a word either, eh?).
Mo: "Refreshing!"

GAYANASHAGOWA
The "Iroquois peace drink" is infused with Wisconsin ginseng and jasmine flowers. The jasmine is the first thing you smell, and even dominates the taste. There were also hints of edible flowers, much like the ones you can score at the farmers' market.
Mo: "This reminds me of flower arranging."

ULTRAVIOLET KISSES
"Ultrasalty kisses" was how our server described this one to us. It's served in a brandy snifter with seastones and ume - don't eat the rocks! This sake is aged with ume, and tastes a lot like seawater. This one is meant for slow, slow sipping. The first couple of sips are actually quite disgusting, but after the initial shock wears off, you can see why this one is Bun's favorite -- it comes out smoky, salty, and somewhat sweet. This one is for only the most refined of palates.
Mo: "Umeboshi!!!"

THE MAGIC GARDEN
This one is infused with wild dandelion petals. It took 2 people 3 full days to make 24 750ml bottles. It smells of orange and cloves -- think mulled wine at Christmas. It tastes mostly of butterscotch, with some of the orange and clove hints. I was reminded of a butterscotch candy.
Mo: "Smoky!"

CHEROKEE SUMAC LOVE POTION
Infused with hand-picked wild sumac berries, this one smelled and tasted quite citrusy (ok, still not a word). I immediately decided that if this was what sumac tastes like, the next time I find poison sumac, I'm rubbing it all over my tongue. (Our server explained the difference between sumac and poison sumac).
This one was my favorite, and Mo's second fave.

YELLOW FEVER
Guava sake. I could leave the description at that.
It smelled of a pineapple blended cocktail. It didn't taste as fruity as I would have thought from the smell. The alcohol actually overpowered the fruit just a little, and I hope this is corrected in future batches. I'm not saying not to get it -- just keep that in mind.
This one was Mo's favorite, and she downed the rest like a first year sorority girl at a UCONN frat party before I could even get another sip in.

CHINESE FIRECRACKER
Hot! Hot!! Hot!!!
No, really, it's friggin' HOT.
This one is infused with aged chili peppers, and was aged further in the bottle since January of 2006. This stuff even smells hot -- super hot. This one is not for the feint-of-heart. Mind you, while this concoction is super-spicy, it's quite well balanced. Unlike something like Dave's Insanity Sauce, it is not hot for the sake of "hot", and has quite a bit of flavor -- think hot, smoky salsa (but alcoholic).
If you like spicy foods, you have not truly lived until you have tried this sake!
This is my MUST BUY of the lot.
Mo: "It gets hotter at the end! I thought I was done!!"

DRAGON LADY
Apparently the last Empress of China's secret recipe, this one is infused with ginger, lemongrass, and clover honey. Any sweetness of the honey is lost in the taste, which is dominated by the ginger. You can still find traces of lemongrass in there. Vegans everywhere will hate me, but I'd like to see the next batch infused with more honey. The ginger, however, cancels out any alcohol taste, so beware of this one.
Mo: "eh."


If you haven't been to Miya's before, expect to spend another $20-40 per person, depending on how much you eat. There are amazing vegan options, and most nights Bun just brings you little dishes of things he's trying out. I'm unsure of the price (I think it was $35-50-ish), but on Wednesday they do a 10 course dinner for the meat/fish eaters. Much of it can be made veggie if desired.
If you're the type of person who gets creeped out when the server knows your name by the end of the meal, stay away -- there's a Denny's somewhere with your name on it.